Exhaust gaskets

Would also carefully compare lengths of all existing collar halves to assure there're all exactly the same length. And that the flanged ends of the collar halves are not damaged and thereby unable to fit snugly into the clamp recesses.

as patton said for sure... order of assmb...and proper fits are the #1 start point...and his paragraph above better words my thinking,,, on my statement,,, about the collers small chance of being flopped backwards...the flanges would not sit in their tracks.....good luck...now you gotta tell us what it was...craig

With some headers it will apear that the split collers are toooo short. but what the problem stems from is that some of the aftermarket headers have a thinner flang so u need longer split collars OR 2 washers. I use high temp silicone to hold the washes in the center of the ext port.They can slide down and block flow.Also u can use twist ties or more high temp silicone to hold the split collars in place.

Well here are the photos.

This is with no pressure on the collar



Pushing collar - gives you an idea on how much movement there is



How this one is supposed to be the way the collars fit. The correct way is how my hand is holding it all together?
The one on the left is just to show that the collar doesnt fit all the way around the flange.



And heres one of the project. Its my first project bike ever so I apologise if some Z purists find it ugly lookin. Its a work in progress and it looks a billion time better than what it did when I got it.

Lookslike the split colors are backwards.

From the pictures, it appears you have the collars on backwards. The raised lip part of the collar should be on the end farthest from the engine and the other end pointing towards the engine (pushing on the raised lip of the header end). This will allow everything to be nice and tight, and no leaks.

If you need a pic let me know and I'll go out to the garage and snap one.

LukeJ wrote:

but a not so subtle flash

Being that the collars are backward would explain the flash.

FLIP THE TWO THIN "SPLIT" COLLERS OVER ON EACH PIPE....then grease the o ring copper gasketts and stick em in the exhuast ports hold the collers together with one hand while placing the flange/manifolds/header holders/whatevers... over the exhuast studs with the other hand(notice your outta hands hugh) the header will wanna fall down as you only have two hands ...dont worry once you get the ex nuts started on one head pipe ...it gets easier...now as you finger tight the first pipe make sure the collers fat side is getting pushed even by the manifold ...and that the collers thin sides are pushing against the lip of the pipe where IT (the pipe) pushes on the gaskets you greased into the exhuast ports...this is gonna seal it...get all pipes started even ...then at some point loosen the foot/peg mount so you can wiggle the whole exuast a tad "now and then" to check if it is seating even across the heads ex ports then tighten the stud nuts even tapping shit all the time to center the whole stuff... then re tighten the foot peg and give er a go....who cares what your bike looks like ....looks fine to me and better than some i've been around...you will do fine and become where this procedure takes 20 minutes...peace craig AFTER NOTE: do not think that the split collers are goona touch on both side like your fingers in the picture are forcing them to do....they do not!!!! they will have a gap on each side and that gap is nicer if evened out befroe you tighten the manifolds down on em....

When I pulled my pipes off the split collars had the fiberglass strand residue of fiberglass packing tape. I am guessing the last time they were put on the PO used that to hold them on for installation. does this sound like a feasible methode?

dman

Patton wrote:

Assure the old exhaust gasket is removed. Sometimes there are two old gaskets in the same port where reassembled without new gaskets. The old gasket is often difficult to see all crusted inside the port.

Would always use new copper crush gaskets.

With exhaust clamps hanging loosely around header pipes and new copper gaskets fitted inside the head recesses (a dab of hi-temp sealant helps hold them in position), hold the headers in place on the head against the gaskets, and fit a pair of split collars onto each header pipe with the small non-flared ends of the split collars toward the engine to press against the flared ends of the header pipes. Use masking tape (or rubber bands) to hold the split collars in place during assembly. The flared ends of the split collars fit into recesses in the exhaust clamps. While holding everything in position, loosley start the clamp holder nuts onto the exhaust studs, and assure all parts being properly fitted and aligned before tightening the exhaust stud nuts against the collars.

The clamp will crack or break when tightened unless all parts are correctly fitted and aligned.

Clamps press against split collars.

Split collars press against header flanges.

Header flanges press against copper gaskets.

Good luck with the installation!

Run Run Run
Run Spot Run
See Spot Run

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Just razzing ya for less than careful reading of the earlier responses. :woohoo:

Many prefer using rubber bands --- "Smells like victory!"

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Good Luck!

dman3998 wrote:

When I pulled my pipes off the split collars had the fiberglass strand residue of fiberglass packing tape. I am guessing the last time they were put on the PO used that to hold them on for installation. does this sound like a feasible methode?

dman

Sure you can do that. Doesn't matter what kind of tape because once the pipe is installed you no longer need tape. Use fiberglass, black electrical tape, even scotch tape.
If the collars happen to be too short I wouldn't recommend using double gaskets. If you look at the port the pipes plug into there is only a small distance available for the pipe to slip into and using dual gaskets will completely fill the port. Chances are very good when you tighten the pipe it won't be 100% in the port and will be tightened down to the surrounding head casting and not in the port. No seal at all when that happens. Do as you see fit though, if it works that's fine.

Well im having a bit of difficulty installing this exhaust - mainly because I was putting

Gasket - Split Collar - Header - Clamp

When it should be

Gasket - Header - Spilt Collar - Clamp

I know Im new at this, but it seems a really fiddly way of fitting an exhaust!

Heres a pic of all the new shiny painted stuff I picked up off the spraypainter today.



*** EDIT!
I know what the problem is. The set of headers that came with the bike had a flange which was essentially just a curled lip at the end of the pipe. The set of split collars would make up the rest of the distance to fill the space to make the clamp useful.

The headers I am using have a flange that is about 2/3 of an inch long. Put the split collars onto the flange and the collars are too long. All I really need is a set of short collars. Would cutting my existing ones to size be the best option?

looking good i like the colors that shouldn't attract any extra attention should it