replacing the cam chain

jzanutto wrote:

also, I looked at Z1 for chains and one is like 35 and the other is 41. Is that 41 dollar one a lot better?

which chain are you referring to?it lists your cam chain for like $85

42 dollars

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1545

oops i was thinking of the 81 1000 at the top of page that started all of this :laugh:

jzanutto wrote:

42 dollars

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1545

that one is the hd chain if tearing down all the way...if you are gonna do the master link deal,
you are going to have to get one that they have master link kits for.....i dont think they sell a master link for the hd one....decisions decisions....definitely go hd if you are tearing apart...

Strange noise -- what strange noise? At what rpm? Under what circumstances? Could result from any number of things besides something requiring an engine teardown.

For example, abnormally loud cam chain noise, especially at lower rpm's, is often attributable to carbs being out of sync, or other tuning needs arising from incorrect timing or advancer operation, or improper cam chain slack adjustment, etc.
[/quote]

It was most noticeable a low rpm near idle like rubbing near the bottom of the engine or transmission. I just got the bike last fall and I dont think it was maintaned very well before I got it.

I've got to agree with thomas ed when he says:

"abnormally loud cam chain noise, especially at lower rpm's, is often attributable to carbs being out of sync, or other tuning needs arising from incorrect timing or advancer operation, or improper cam chain slack adjustment, etc."

I had loud clanking at idle for two seasons. For me the solution was clean carbs with new kits, then carburetor synchronizing and finally OEM cam chain tensioner adjustment. Man what a difference... like a new engine and that's at 64,000 Kilometers/36,000 Miles. Absolutely not clanking at any speed or engine load.

Could save a few bucks. Best of success.

please do your self a favor use the best quality one available and use a one piece chain as i have seen master links fail and when that happens it gets very expensive.splitting the cases is a very easy job just don't use hammers there are two 8mm bolt holes that you thread 2 case bolts into and they seperate the case halfs.

I like the work, that way I can clean all the parts up , unstick any stuck rings and maybe run my hone through the cylinders and restore the crosshatch

Chain wear is measurable; no reason to randomly change out something that you don't know for a fact is worn.

I'm not familiar with the service manual for that model but typically there is an elongation specification so you measure length between a known distance - such as between 20 pins, and compare that length to a spec. If the chain is elongated, time to change it.

Within the real world of chain life, a cam chain is lightly loaded, gets lots of lubrication, and stays away from grit. Not saying your cam chain is not worn, just that it most likely isn't and you might want to measure before going thorough the expense and hassle of changing it out randomly.