motor sitting for 9 years

any ideas about me putting a wrench on the timing side crank bolt after penetrating oil has soaked in the piston jugs for week or two?????? the motor is a 73 z1 that was drivin daily by a passed away z-brother parked and then caught in a fire...left for nine years sitting and had two clean plugs and two weatherd plugs corasponding to the firing order upon removal last week .Telling me(i think) that two cyl.had open valves and two were closed (the two plugs almost looked new like someone put them in after the fire but before starting it again and then it sat for years .
I think this motor could be a runner ..cleaned up -oil changed ..re timed..and made to run?
i wonder if i would strip the timing bolt to try and rotate the crank assm. or if i should try to bump it in gear first to break the cyl corrosin from the rings????..it's on my bench now???not in the bike...???peace Craig

id dump some oil/tranny fluid down the plug holes let it sit a little while and use the kick starter by hand to turn it over real easily.

hey good answer( i was thinking to hard) the kick starter is the first way to try for sure..i used penetrating oil a good bit in each plug hole..but some trans fluid sounds good too.i'm gonna flush it with cheap oil if it will turn over a few times...thanks peace craig

Pb blaster works the best!If your patient with it,it works wonders!

PLUMMEN wrote:

id dump some oil/tranny fluid down the plug holes let it sit a little while and use the kick starter by hand to turn it over real easily.

There is a penetrating oil called Kroil which is the greatest for getting under rust.

Male threads on the bolt fitting into end of the crankshaft and/or female threads inside the crankshaft will likely strip if the bolt head is used to hand-turn the crankshaft, even when a motor isn't frozen. The not-so-big and not-so-strong bolt mainly just holds the advancer in place and isn't designed for whopping godzilla torque.

There is a 17mm "fake" nut purposefully there to use when hand-turning the crankcase to align the T mark on the advancer with the permanent timing mark on the case whenever top-dead-center positioning is desired. But even this 17mm nut is designed for hand-turning a non-frozen engine. And I would not use the 17mm nut either in attempting to break free a frozen motor (presumably piston rings rusted to cylinder walls). But am thinking the 17mm "fake" nut is replaceable if damaged by excessive torque.

Good Luck!

have been spraying pb blaster in the cylinders , tri flowand oil-- and yesterday put a pull on the kickstarter..it is locked up pretty good.
I guess i'll wait a while and see if time and some more pb can work some magic.
I found a complete versah gaskett kit in the boxes that came in the deal -so maybe a tear down and a bump in bore and piston wpould be the right thing to do. peace craig

Craig, You don't have much choice on a tear down. Don't try turning the nut on the end of the crank to turn the engine over as you will only end up shearing the locating pin for the mechanical advance. The reason it won't turn over is that some of the piston rings are rusted to the iron cylinder liners. Once this rusting takes place, generally you can't hone out the rust so you will need to end up boring anyway. The main thing, at this point, is to try and NOT break anything getting the block off when you start prying. Break loose the base gasket by tapping with a rubber hammer and then start prying. Don't get frustrated; it will eventually come off but you will have to pry one end then the other; back and forth. Chances are, nothing else will show any rust signs, even in the bottom of the engine. The next step will depend on what you plan on doing with the bike. You can either make it a 1015cc by boring the old block OR you can buy a 1015cc block and bore to 1075cc. If you paint the thing properly, no one will notice the 1015cc stamped on the new block and it will perk the thing up quite a bit.

yes, yes ,
the broken fins are to be avoided. i thank you for your responses...and i am in possesion of a used clean big bore kit and block set that i got a while back for my 76 pretty cheap.I may just see what size it is and find out if it will work on this z-1 since my 76 is running still and i ride it and the z-1 is out on my bench..i want to have everything ready to go before i start taking the z-1 apart so i don't waste time before putting it together and loose somthing or forget whats what...more questions to follow i'm sure peace crakig

I would try to be patiant and let it soak for a week . Then try the kick start again , before a tare down.The bolt on the other end of the crank is too small to use as well, but u could try a chain wrench around the stator.
Good luck.

mark1122 wrote:

I would try to be patiant and let it soak for a week . Then try the kick start again , before a tare down.The bolt on the other end of the crank is too small to use as well, but u could try a chain wrench around the stator.
Good luck.

Or maybe a rubber belt style automotive oil filter remover tool.

I tore it down tonight and found the cleanest z-1 cams and roller assembly i've seen on a unknown bike.
there is allmost no carbon on the pistons but they have been soaking so who knows there...BUT...the rings in three of the cylinders have gone to town with mother nature...the head came of clean and the valve gaskett,cam chain o-ring, and head gaskets looked brand new...my girl waited for two hours longer for dinner so i had to call it a night but i was ready to try and gently!!!!!!!pry the block up..i put some p.b on the cylinders and scraped the rust rings a little then re sprayed,, tomorrow i'm gonna start tapping/prying...peace