'77 KZ650B1 cam seating issue

So, I changed the plugs (they're all getting spark), Checked the fuel line (it's getting gas). Finally got it started and rode it around a little and felt the pipes and the third header was cool when the rest were hot. Apparently, I'm running on three cylinders. Could this be linked to my engine timing experience??

since you had some issues with the cam timing, you may want to run a quick compression check just to be sure.

If the bikes been sitting up,it sounds like you have a stopped up jet in one of your carbs.Alot of times they will run good until you take it out and really run it.Then all the old gas and varnish breaks loose from the bottom of your bowls,and gets sucked up in the jets.

Did a compression test...
1-130
2-135
3-0
4-152
I have absolutely no compression in the third cylinder.
I have spark on all 4 plugs, carbs are fine.
The plug on the bad cylinder is wet with gas.
Poured the teaspoon of oil in the plug hole and no change in compression...so, it's a valve issue, huh? Haven't checked clearance yet...that's next on the agenda.

Bummer,,,, my guess is you bent a valve, a quick check of the clearance will tell you which one, since it will have a lot since the valve is bent.
The sad thing is your gonna have to pull the head.

If T is for TDC, what's F for?
RonKZ650 wrote:

Of course you need to tighten the cam caps, and the cams will settle in place and you'll have your slack. No way the cam can ever lay flat until you fully install. So line the T mark up on your advancer, look at the arrow on the exhaust cam and visualize where it will line up when the bolts are tightened, torque the cam down enough for it to be fully seated, look at your arrow and if you've guessed wrong by a tooth or two, go back and redo. After the exhaust is lined up, count back your 36 teeth and line the intake cam there, torque the intake cam, then press down on the chain between the cams to get enough slack to install the center idler sprocket, turn the engine clockwise slightly to take slack out, then install the tensioner if it's been removed, turn the engine over 1 revolution to the T mark and see both arrows lining up correctly with the head. There is no reason to ever remove the tensioner when removing the cams because on pre 1979 manual tensioner it will stay set right where it was, on 79-up lock the tensioner as instructed in the manual.

If T is for TDC, what's F for?

F is "Fire" (as in sparkplug). The plug fires before TDC.

The F mark is used in ignition timing to align the F mark with the permanent timing mark on the engine case while using a strobe-type timing light.

The T mark isn't used for ignition timing.

Good Luck!