10.5 to 1 1075 rebuild

trippivot wrote:

weisco good

cometic gaskets good
vesrah gaskets good
web cams good
camchain - tsubaki--best!!
get 34mm CV carbs A+ good and smooth best for the money!!

vance and hines -good
more power will have you thinking about fork springs and brakes soon.

thanks for the input....i already did new pads all the way around and new stainless braided lines also..
have new springs and oil on bench , just havent got around to installing them yet...

The main issue with replacing the cam chain is splitting the cases. The actual splitting part is a snap BUT you have to remove all your case covers on the sides of the engine as well as the oil pan. When you remove all the covers, you have to scrape all the old gaskets and that is the rub. Gasket scraping is time consuming and a pain even for an experienced mechanic. I know that there are those who will sniff at the idea of a master link cam chain but I have installed MANY even in some powerful motors and never had a failure. The secret is to correctly stake the link ends just like they are staked from the factory. If you are installing pistons and remove the block, staking is a snap. You can put the chain together with the new master link and pull it over to the left side of the bike. You can then use the rear motor mount bolt to back-stop the chain while you stake it. I recommend a punch and chisel. The master link is every bit as strong as any of the other links and there is no significant side load on the chain so I say, if you are not a hot rodder, to use a master link cam chain. Change out the rubber parts associated with the cam chain. That rubber bumper up in the front of the block... use a hand impact driver with a #2 bit as it will fight you coming out and you will just strip the head otherwise as it is loctited in usually (I DO EVERY TIME!). If you flex the old one and most of the rubber is still there, note all the cracks in the rubber. That thing is usually destined for the oil pan. Get some new rubber pads for the idler assembly and if you can spring for new rollers, they are not a bad idea. Take you tensioner apart and examine the inside for deep scoring. That thing gets scored on the inside and the piston that tensions will sometimes hang. It would be a dandy time to buy some new cam end plugs and install a new seal on the tach drive. I would disassemble the cylinder head while it is off and clean with a wire wheel brush on a drill or Dremel with a similar attachment and clean the valves and re-lap them back in. I would test the seal with machinists dye... You paint the edge of valve and drop it in the seat. Without turning the valve, you pull it out. Any poor seal will show as gaps in the dye. Last, with the head apart, it is a good time to clean up plug thread or install inserts (M14 plug inserts) and install inserts for the cam cap thread rather than do it while reinstalling the cams. If you do split the cases, check the oil journals for flow. Also if you split the cases, have a full gasket set on hand and remember to remove the top bolts around the starter area. Have some case sealer on hand such as Hondabond HT or Threebond, etc.

Wow! That was thorough. Thanks WG.

wiredgeorge wrote:

The main issue with replacing the cam chain is splitting the cases. The actual splitting part is a snap BUT you have to remove all your case covers on the sides of the engine as well as the oil pan. When you remove all the covers, you have to scrape all the old gaskets and that is the rub. Gasket scraping is time consuming and a pain even for an experienced mechanic. I know that there are those who will sniff at the idea of a master link cam chain but I have installed MANY even in some powerful motors and never had a failure. The secret is to correctly stake the link ends just like they are staked from the factory. If you are installing pistons and remove the block, staking is a snap. You can put the chain together with the new master link and pull it over to the left side of the bike. You can then use the rear motor mount bolt to back-stop the chain while you stake it. I recommend a punch and chisel. The master link is every bit as strong as any of the other links and there is no significant side load on the chain so I say, if you are not a hot rodder, to use a master link cam chain. Change out the rubber parts associated with the cam chain. That rubber bumper up in the front of the block... use a hand impact driver with a #2 bit as it will fight you coming out and you will just strip the head otherwise as it is loctited in usually (I DO EVERY TIME!). If you flex the old one and most of the rubber is still there, note all the cracks in the rubber. That thing is usually destined for the oil pan. Get some new rubber pads for the idler assembly and if you can spring for new rollers, they are not a bad idea. Take you tensioner apart and examine the inside for deep scoring. That thing gets scored on the inside and the piston that tensions will sometimes hang. It would be a dandy time to buy some new cam end plugs and install a new seal on the tach drive. I would disassemble the cylinder head while it is off and clean with a wire wheel brush on a drill or Dremel with a similar attachment and clean the valves and re-lap them back in. I would test the seal with machinists dye... You paint the edge of valve and drop it in the seat. Without turning the valve, you pull it out. Any poor seal will show as gaps in the dye. Last, with the head apart, it is a good time to clean up plug thread or install inserts (M14 plug inserts) and install inserts for the cam cap thread rather than do it while reinstalling the cams. If you do split the cases, check the oil journals for flow. Also if you split the cases, have a full gasket set on hand and remember to remove the top bolts around the starter area. Have some case sealer on hand such as Hondabond HT or Threebond, etc.

VERY GOOD INFO.....thanks...good tip on staking the master link for the camchain....i will do a visual on all roller parts for chain and replace as needed.the jugs i am getting have a new roller installed, so thats one down....the head will be going out to have new valve guides and oil seals put in as well as have the valves blasted and measured for usefulness....my tach drive stuff is all new as is the cable as it was a leaky mess when i got the bike.have new cam end rubbers too..i also had to replace
grommet and gasket and starter clutch on left side
as well as rewire for the grommet deal..no more leaks...i m going for an a p e tensioner also....
i am going to do teardown on sat and see what is what...i think the fun begins with the a p e heavy duty studs ....thanks again....keith

sorry guy's but i'm a firm believer of changing cam chains out with one piece units not joined ive had master links come apart on drive chains before and it messes things up pretty good so just imagine what would happen if the master link wasn't installed exactly correct what would happen to your nice expensive cams cylinder head port job new piston's bore job block and cases if all hell broke loose.
enough bad things can happen on there own. why push it.

Stud removers are easy to find... keep in mind that most will nick up the old studs and if you ever want to reuse the old studs, you will need to clean the thread with a die. I would suggest you find a stud installer. If you don't have one, you will end up tightening with vise-grips and there is no way to torque them consistently. The holes they come out of will be pretty dirty and full of junk so you might want to do some cleaning before installing the new studs.

well, i pulled head and jugs....all in all doesnt look too bad for 33k inside...some burning on the pistons..bores in old jug look good..not much of a ridge in cylinders....its gonna need cam bearings and my cam chain sprockets and rubbers are past toast.
i have one sprocket thats tight and re-useable and the rest are gone....i m surprised the chain stayed
on..!!i m probably gonna get a cam chain with a master link from z-1 and the installation and removal tool...i m just thinking about fishing out the end from the crankcase..not a whole lot of room but i have a mag p/u tool with a flexible,bendable shaft that should do the job...
in a perfect world with no kids, wife, mortgage , car payment, and general shit going on, a total teardown would be ideal. but like everyone else, time and money are at a premium....on to installing pistons and new studs...keith

If you use a masterlink camchain, break your old chain, then use your new masterlink to tie the new chain to the old, turn over the crankshaft pulling the old chain around and the new follows suit. keep turning til the new is completely threaded around the crank, take off your masterlink, dispose of the old chain and you're all done. No fishing then.

RonKZ650 wrote:

If you use a masterlink camchain, break your old chain, then use your new masterlink to tie the new chain to the old, turn over the crankshaft pulling the old chain around and the new follows suit. keep turning til the new is completely threaded around the crank, take off your masterlink, dispose of the old chain and you're all done. No fishing then.

thanks a lot.....you know, thats something i should have thought of myself, but i didnt.....i m worried .. the brain farts are increasing in frequency!!!.......