oil in exhaust pipes-rings

:dry: I got a kz 650 sr. I noticed the other day that
oil from the exhaust pipe. I wrench, but how hard is it to
tear down & I assume(ass u me)rings & what else needs
replacing? Clymer manual says rings, just lookin for
consensus on if thats all I need to do or is there some-
thing else that could be causing this? Thanks for the
help in advance and this is one way cool, great site.
keep it up. Good info
TODDSTER
Wind in the face. Keep on keepin on.

Could also be valve guides or seals on the valve stems leaking. The rubber gets hard and is not as pliable leeting oil run down the stems. I'm not familiar with the 650's but I'd imagine it's similar to my 1100 as to cam chain and cam layout.

I believe the cam chain must be disconnected if there is a masterlink, the cams removed and the head unbolted. While you're in there check the valves for indication of burning(not seating due to improper clearances).

A factory shop manual is a must have for mechanical repair like this and I have two websites that might have it.
www.repairmanual.com is one and www.onlinefreebooks.net is another.

Have a complete upper head gasket set handy as you never know what you'll find when the head come off.

I think www.z1enterprises.com would be the place to go for gaskets or www.redlinecycle.com , www.sudco.com , www.dynoman.net , www.kzzone.com , www.partsnmore.com , and www.vintagecyclepart.com

TODDSTER wrote:

:dry: I got a kz 650 sr. I noticed the other day that
oil from the exhaust pipe. I wrench, but how hard is it to
tear down & I assume(ass u me)rings & what else needs
replacing? Clymer manual says rings, just lookin for
consensus on if thats all I need to do or is there some-
thing else that could be causing this? Thanks for the
help in advance and this is one way cool, great site.
keep it up. Good info
TODDSTER
Wind in the face. Keep on keepin on.

Buy a factory service manual and it will tell you exactly how to tear it down. Clymer'sis worthless for that.

Blowing oil out the pipe usually means serious engine work.

Thanks MFolks & bountyhunter, I'll try & locate a kz fact-
ory manuel. looked on suggested site, no luck. Maybe my
local kawie dealer can order one for me, unless some 1 out
there in forum land has 1.{kz650 D1a sr}just get hold of me
here or do a u2u or e-mail me (mnmacres@zoominternet.net)
Bounty Hunter when you say somthing serious is the matter
How serious & at what cost for parts roughly & an idea of
what parts I may need? Thanks

TODDSTER wrote:

:dry: I got a kz 650 sr. I noticed the other day that
oil from the exhaust pipe. I wrench, but how hard is it to
tear down & I assume(ass u me)rings & what else needs
replacing? Clymer manual says rings, just lookin for
consensus on if thats all I need to do or is there some-
thing else that could be causing this? Thanks for the
help in advance and this is one way cool, great site.
keep it up. Good info
TODDSTER
Wind in the face. Keep on keepin on.

Questions please for more background data to aid diagnosis:
Exhaust 4/1 or 4/2?
Being parked mostly on side-stand and not center-stand?
General performance level of bike?
How long has problem been going on?
Compression test figures?
How many miles on top-end?
Valve seals ever replaced?
Has oil and filter been changed lately?
Any gasoline odor in the crankcase oil?
Oil level correct (not too high)?


If performance otherwise seems okay, am thinking maybe the oil from exhaust issue is simply from old hard leaking valve seals. When this occurs, it's often worse when first cranked and exhaust smoke diminishes as the bike attains normal operating temperature. Parking on the side-stand allows more oil to accumulate on the left side under the valve cover and puddle at #1 cylinder valves with seepage past the seals. The oil which has seeped past the valve stem seals should burn away through the normal combustion (causing smoke from the exhaust) and be hardly noticeable after a few miles.

It may of course be worn oil rings or possibly a faulty oil passage o-ring, or some other more serious ailment, but would prefer looking at the simple stuff first.

Good Luck!

Patton,theres 23270 on the clock, 4 into 2 exhaust. I park on side when
out & about center stand when parked in shed,this has been going on for
about 2 1/2 wks. No odor of gas in crank, oil level drop to low level
then I add oil to center of eye glass. I haven't done a compression test
yet hopefully sometime this wk end. The performance is excellent
it has lots of zip,get-up,& go. No hesitation! I will look into
the minor stuff first seeing how that is usually the right brite thing
to do Oh well it could be worse. at least there wern't no ground
hogs or fire balls involved, LOL thats how you(me)maintain your
sanity. Thanks i'll keep ya posted when I find out more
TODDSTER

TODDSTER wrote:

Bounty Hunter when you say somthing serious is the matter
How serious & at what cost for parts roughly & an idea of
what parts I may need? Thanks

Can't say without opening it up. If there is a lot of oil coming out it could be a cracked head, broken ring, really bad valve seal, bad O-ring seals at the head and maybe other things my old brain doesn't recall.

First thing I would do is a cold compression test then do the oil squirt and retest.

If the bike has 23k on the old original valve guide seals, they are almost certainly in hoseville. I would think rings would still be OK unless the engine was severely abused, but it might need a valve lap.

I understand a cold compression test but, what is (then do the oil squirt) I understand the retest part? Yea I guess
your right, I'll have to open her up to get to the bottom
of it, in this case to the top of it. at least my sanity
is still in tact. Later kawie dudes & thanks bunches for
info.

Also forgot to ask. What is a valve lap? Thanks in advance.

1) Make sure all cylinders are firing.

2) If one isn't, make sure it's not too rich for some reason.

Cold compression test (hold throttle wide open). Then add a teaspoon of oil into each sparkplug hole and re-test. A significant change in psi figures indicates compression rings/piston/bore are worn. No significant change (with continued low psi) indicates too tight valve clearance or possible worn or damaged valve/seat interface.

Often, setting the valve clearances to specs will resolve a low compression problem. However, where there's wear or damage to the valve/seat interface, a valve job is likely necessary. A valve job is sometimes referred to as "lapping" or "grinding" or "cutting" or "re-facing" or "honing" or "shaping" and probably other descriptions. Imo, precise cutting of the valve face and seat is better to attain the best interface. And not the old-fashioned use of valve-grinding compound twisting the valve back and forth in its seat (which I think may result in too much surface contact and contribute to leakage).

Unless seriously abused, 23K is very low mileage, and I wouldn't expect it to warrant a valve job or need any immediate attention to rings/piston/bore, especially where on-the-road performance remains acceptable.

Imo, tearing into the top end for sole purpose of replacing old hard worn leaking valve stem seals, just doesn't justify the time and effort involved, especially if the compression figures are acceptable with valve clearances properly adjusted, and the engine performance is okay.

But also should remember that good compression figures (attributable to the compression rings), do not necessarily guarantee that the oil rings are okay. Because a worn, broken or damaged oil ring may allow oil into the combustion chamber (with smoking from the exhaust) in spite of good compression and proper valve seating. Because of the relatively low mileage, am guessing oil ring failure is not to blame in this case.

Btw, how much oil is being added between changes?

And is more exhaust smoke noticed from the left side? Or is a cross-over pipe fitted between the left and right side exhausts (which would allow more equal smoke regardless of which particular cylinder was contributing the most oil smoke)?

Good Luck!

I thought I new what a compression test was:huh: :blush: Well half of it any way.I'll give the oil (t.spoon per cyl.) a try & see where i'm
at & go from there. Don't ya have to take valve covers off to set valve
clearance. I though ya had to but I could be mistaken. 1 more question.
Can i put a 79 motor w/air injection sys(kz650sr) into 78 frame & if I can how do I hook
up air injection system without air inj.frame. Thanks Things are lookin up.