Nitrous!!!

I have gotten many wonderful tips and ideas from the members here on kzrider for my kz1000 build. For a little background i plan on welding the crank, cutting the transmission, hd 2nd gear, studs, 1327 big block, cams, and heavily ported head. All this should make it a fairly stout bike. Although i keep thinking that it would be nice to have a little backup to be used when ever necessary. This backup would be nitrous :evil:. I was also thinking, what all is necessary to have a motor that can handle a nitrous setup, and how much is too much. Would 12:1 compression pistons be too high for nitrous? Also, what size of a shot would be right, and not too much?

You do like to make things complicated

12:1 1327 on the street? Why do you want to open up that can of worms? Overheating, detonation, etc, to worry about before you even think about nitrous.

Why not something along the lines of 10:1 compression, Dyna2000 (or whatever one gives you ignition retard), and nitrous? Seems like it'd still have an excess of power without as many headaches.

With nitrous and carbs comes an electric fuel pump to provide the needed extra fuel, and a nitrous controller so you can implement in stages.

It seems to me that such a build might actually be easier with fuel injection and a megasquirt controller. The Megasquirt can do the ignition retard, control multistage nitrous, and do a shift light and rev limiter, all the while fueling with some 40-46 mm throttle bodies.

I'd call wherever you're spending all the money buying the parts and ask them for their advice. For the amount of money you will be spending, I'd expect personalized service

All this should make it a fairly stout bike

That's an understating...

Jesus, put friggin wings on that thing. :laugh:

Oh to be young again...

pictures damn it, we want pictures...

OMR

I think you should be fine if you limit your self to a 50 shot. You wouldn't need a controller with that. Also use tool steel pins during your build.

Where people have a problem with nitrous is GREED!!!.. It only cost $20 to double the shot. Some people simply can't resist that.

Jay

if you keep your carbs, you will need a fuel pump for a fogger system(wet nitrous kit). i would suggest a small seperate gas tank for this. that way you can run c16 in the small tank, and pump gas in the regular tank. go a heat range colder on your spark plugs, pull 3 degrees of timing for the 50 shot to be ultra safe.
ive been playing with nitrous on my 12 lately... still working on the launch, but my new best at the drag strip is 9.02 @157. another run had a bad et due to a wheelie, but i went 161mph :woohoo: I have a wet system like i described above, with lots of added electronics to keep it safe.

oh, i forgot to mention, tune it rich so it lasts a long time. start out with a 4 jet spread. for example right now my bike is setup with a 60 shot. .020 nitrous jets and .024 fuel jets. its using a NOS fuel pump. im just running pump gas in both tanks for now, but when i step up to a BIG shot ill be using c16 in the little tank. on your old air cooled bike you would be much better off running c16 for a 50 shot though. for 25, pump would probly be fine. if you can get on a dyno, or if you data log, try to tune for 12.6:1 afr on motor, and 11.9-12:1 afr on spray. just to keep things safe and unmelted lol
good luck, nitrous is great stuff when its working right. when its working wrong, it gets very very expensive

hey i hope your planning on racing that beast because if you run that combo on the street it wont live long that is an awful lot of compression for a big 2 valve motor besides that block your talking about is solid (no way for air to get thru to cool the block) what kind of carbs were you planning on running,in order to take advantage of all that potential horsepower. also another important consideration is your wheelbase you will have to rake your frame if you want to use a large diameter pipe like the vance and hines spigot set-up. also the longer the wheel base the easier it is to launch. I have 3 raked bikes with longer than stock swing arms two with wheelie bars 1 with out it sure makes them easier to ride hard :evil:

I rode a FZ1100 once that had the WOW button on it,,,, never never never again will I touch the WOW button unless the bike has wheelie bars on it!!!!!!!!!!.. I dont like looking at the stars on one wheel

50hp all in one shot is a lot without bars considering a lot of these bikes were lucky to have 70hp at rearwheel when they were new ,id rather bring it in gradually with a controller.atleast a turbo comes on with rpms so you have a little control over the situation!:laugh:

a wheelie bar is definately going to be on this bike at the track. Also, is the rake necessary? I would like to keep this bike somewhat stocker looking besides the extended swingarm with a slick and wheelie bar. As for carbs i will get whatever is necessary. The nitrous would not get used very often. Probably only a handful of times per year when i stop at the dragstrip. It will be a short trip driver that will scare the shit out of me and those around it :evil:

jordan wrote:

I would like to keep this bike somewhat stocker looking besides the extended swingarm with a slick and wheelie bar.

You don't have to rake it. Raking it does help with top-end stability at the 'strip but if you hardly ever go then the only thing raking is going to do is make it harder to turn on the street esp. combo'd up with a longer swingarm.

Check out the bike below. 100monkeys on Dragbike.com forum owns it and it isn't raked. He also drives it on the street with 1428cc. Oh and it's kick started.:woohoo:

Later, Doug

I have been 148 mph on my KZ dragbike and it rode like a caddy! Raked front end isn't necessary. It does help stability but makes it harder for a daily driver. But...it does make the bike look cool. Personal choice really though.

my 60 shot is activated all at once(in second gear), but im much longer than stock wheelbase, and have ballast weight on the front end(no wheelie bars on my street bike). trying 80 next wknd if the weather is ok
if you have bars i would think you could start spraying in first gear to get the most out of it
raking the front end is the wrong way to add wheelbase. only do it if you have to (like to fit a different header) the best way to gain wheelbase is with a longer swingarm. a raked bike will have more weight at the back of the bike compared to a bike with an extended swingarm that is the same wheelbase. you want the weight at the front to hold the front end down. the really competive guys use deraked triple trees to use a longer swingarm in a wheelbase limited class.