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KZ1000 head rebuild
- fordtruck
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Almost forgot, the bike has 35,000 miles and the previous owner installed new rings last year.
Thanks
'77 KZ1000-MTC 1075 kit. Stage 1 port
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- bountyhunter
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This winter I am thinking about rebuilding the head on my 77 KZ1000. I am getting a puff of blue smoke when I let off the throttle to shift, which I think means the valve seals are leaking. How difficult is it to change the seals? Do I need a special tool to do this? I don't want to spend a whole lot of money so I'd like to do this myself if I can.
Almost forgot, the bike has 35,000 miles and the previous owner installed new rings last year.
Thanks
The special tool you will need is the valve spring compressor so you can get at the seals. I think the seals are not that hard to replace.
I am getting a puff of blue smoke when I let off the throttle to shift, which I think means the valve seals are leaking.
That wouldn't have been my guess. I recommend a compression check (cold to hot) to get a gauge on cylinder wall wear.
The valve seals may very well be bad, but check the compression too.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- Skyman
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- 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD 1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR
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The only other special tool you'll need is a small hook pick to pull the seals out. You'll need to remove the valve cover, cams, shims & buckets, then use the valve compressor to remove the valve keepers and springs. You can then use the pick to pull the seals out and replace them.
West Linn, OR
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- larrycavan
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if you are going that far in its time to check the guides and do a valvejob as long as its apart
Your best bet, the safe one, is to do a compression check and a leak down test. Then, armed with that information decide if the block should also come back off again.
Absolutely correct. With 35K on it, it's valve job time.
If it's smoking on decelerration, it sounds to me like the rings didn't seat properly. There's no way to know how the bike was broken in or the procedures used when the rings were installed. Who knows, the block may have not been washed properly or possibly even not deglazed properly. The bore could also be near max tollerance.
Do it right or do it over......
Larry C
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- coppertales
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1982 KZ1100 A2
1982 1100 SPECTRE
1982 1100 SPECTRE
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- fordtruck
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'77 KZ1000-MTC 1075 kit. Stage 1 port
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- Old Man Rock
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Example, proper tools will run you ~ $100-$200 pending e-bay or brand new. Valve guides and seal ~ $80 total.
For approximately the same money, you can have someone who knows what their doing accomplish a basic valve job. Especially if the valves require some grinding. You supply the guides and seals and your done with it.
I'm all for doing everything I can myself but some things I want done correctly cause if I'd screw this up, which I tend to do at times, I'm screwed.
Just my thoughts,
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- APE Jay
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However, contrary to the post above, we see very few high milage KZs that don't need guides, so that is another $165.00
Seals add $18.95
HEADS
Jay
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- Old Man Rock
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Z1 has the exhaust guides (4 each) @ 45.64.
intake guides (4 each) @ 40.72. Add tax and crap around $80-$90. Set of 8 seals @ 12.24 plus tax.
Now for my project, APE heavy duty valve springs @ z1 $61.36.
Now the real killer is the damn CAM bearings @ $111.84, ouch! But it must be done...
Anyway you look at it. For a bare minimum or a basic 3 grind valve job, your speaking anywhere between $300-$500 for parts and labor. With a 3 way grind & port and polish... well the price goes up.
Again, for how crucial the head is in a fine tuned machine, let the professionals handle this part no doubt about it. For those that have the tools and know how, I'm envious.
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- bountyhunter
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However, contrary to the post above, we see very few high milage KZs that don't need guides, so that is another $165.00
Jay
Mine had 75k miles when I tore it down, so I assumed it needed new guides and I bought them from kawi (very pricey)before I put the head in the shop. Not a single of the original guides showed any measurable wear. I didn't believe it so the guy ran the gauge down them as I watched. The new guides were actually a half thousandth LOOSER than the old ones. The machinist said guides normally don't wear unless the valve is set up wrong so that there is a rotating force twisting against the sides of the guide.
So, I have four brand new guides for sale for a 750 twin if anybody wants them.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- APE Jay
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Ape Jay... $165 for guides? I'm assuming you meant $65.
Z1 has the exhaust guides (4 each) @ 45.64.
intake guides (4 each) @ 40.72. Add tax and crap around $80-$90. Set of 8 seals @ 12.24 plus tax.
Now for my project, APE heavy duty valve springs @ z1 $61.36.
Now the real killer is the damn CAM bearings @ $111.84, ouch! But it must be done...
Anyway you look at it. For a bare minimum or a basic 3 grind valve job, your speaking anywhere between $300-$500 for parts and labor. With a 3 way grind & port and polish... well the price goes up.
Again, for how crucial the head is in a fine tuned machine, let the professionals handle this part no doubt about it. For those that have the tools and know how, I'm envious.
OMR
I posted a link to our head work page. Guides are about $67.00. Changing them out and honing to size $95.00. So if the head is in the shop and needs guides, it is about $165.00
If the valves are all good, and most are, if the head needs guides, the whole thing is about $375.00, and that is with more flow past the seat.
Jay
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