Set the tension on my cam chain - now it sounds like its sawing itself to pieces.

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05 Sep 2008 15:50 #235687 by themachine
i think his mechanic may have been reffering to the cam chain rub block, or wheels/bushing, thats the only wear items in that system.

and if they break, well, bad things usually result.

82 kawaski csr1000 Evolved into a streetfighter.

I love Speed! Hot Nasty Badass Speed!!!

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05 Sep 2008 17:11 #235703 by Philip Meaney
Not to be insulting here, but did you maybe turn the crank in the right direction when adjusting the tensioner. If you happened to turn it backwards, it would explain everything that happened since.

"Chainsaw" noise is engine running with really loose chain
Gets better because the tensioner eventually takes up slack.
Bike seems to run fine but gets worse as it warms up - I had a DOHC car behave exactly the same when I replaced the timing belt and had one of my cams off by a tooth. Maybe one of the cams on you bike jumped a tooth.

If I'm right, all you need to do is pull off the cam cover and check your timing.

Only thing I've ever done to adjust my cam chain on any bike (except for my turbo which has a manual tensioner) is turn the crank so the chain slack was at the tensioner, loosen the bolt on the tensioner (if required), and tap the tensioner with a screwdriver handle in case it was sticking. Not sure what the Clymer manual suggests.


Just a thought.

80 750 H1
85 750 Turbo
84 GPz 750

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07 Sep 2008 16:20 #236010 by Rickman
KOOL RYDER wrote:

After I changed the exhaust ghaskets, it started puffing back through the carbs.


Exh gaskets can be a real b*tch to keep in the right place while holding in the split keepers and tightening down the collar. Have you double-triple-quadruple checked that these are all in OK?

HTH,
Ricky

1983 KZ1100-L1 "LTD Shaft"
Wiseco 10.5:1 1171 piston kit, bored by APE
Dyna 2000, Dyna S, Dyna grey coils, WG coil power mod, CB900 starter

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07 Sep 2008 18:41 - 08 Sep 2008 03:13 #236031 by Patton
KOOL RYDER wrote:

... bike was running fine, it started up and I would ride it daily... attempted to fix it again and after I fired it up it sounded perfect. I took the bike for a ride and got about 1 mile and it died. It didnt sound terrible, it just quit. I took about 5 mins and it started on full choke, but would die if I gave it any throtle or attempted to close the choke. I managed to limp it home...Any advice?


Might be a fuel supply problem, such as:
Out of gas;
Petcock clogged;
Inline fuel filter clogged;
Fuel tank cap VENT clogged.

Good Luck! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 08 Sep 2008 03:13 by Patton.

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07 Sep 2008 22:47 #236087 by APE Jay

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  • KOOL RYDER
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  • KZ 650B2 / KZ 1000E
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08 Sep 2008 11:07 #236158 by KOOL RYDER
Check this out guys,

I ordered a new tensioner with ghasket from ape , last Monday.

I ordered a valve cover ghasket + fuse assembly from Z1 wednesday.

Saturday the Z1 package showed up.

Man they are great.

Anways once the tensioner shows up i am going to install the tensioer and pull the valve cover and take a peak inside.

Anthing I need to be aware of when I pull the valve cover?
Do I need to put ghasket sealer on the cover or will the new ghasket work fine?

KR

Rockin\' a KZ650B2 since 2007 and a KZ 1000E since 2008

1978 KZ650B
1979 KZ1000ST

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09 Sep 2008 19:23 #236434 by Rail
I have my cover off now and I cant see down inside at the rollers or guide. When i took the cover off there was no sealant or anything on the gasket. I need to clean my carbs and install bigger jets so when I do that I will remove the tensioner and see if anything is wrong. I have a lot of rattling going on towards the top of the engine.

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