Set the tension on my cam chain - now it sounds like its sawing itself to pieces.

So here is the problem.......

The bike was running fine, it started up and I would ride it daily.

After I changed the exhaust ghaskets, it started puffing back through the carbs.

I decided to tension the cam chain to see if it would resolve these issues. After following the procedure in clymers manual I fired it up and it sounded like a chainsaw was trying to cut the engine block in 2 so I shut it down.

I attempted to fix it again and after I fired it up it sounded perfect.

I took the bike for a ride and got about 1 mile and it died.

It didnt sound terrible, it just quit. I took about 5 mins and it started on full choke, but would die if I gave it any throtle or attempted to close the choke.

I managed to limp it home.

Anyways......I think I am in for it. I have ordered a tensioner from ape, and a new ghasket for it.

Any tips on how to pull the tensioner and reinstall?

Any idea why it would be puffing back through the carbs? Too much back pressure maybe? Could it be that I installed the wrong exhaust ghaskets?

I am going to pull the valve cover to see if I can resolve the issues I am having with it once the tensioner arrives.

Any advice?

I'm going to be interested in the answers. Currently in the higher rpms, I get a distinct rubbing sound when I accelerate that I think is the cam chain rubbing against the guide. My tach needle would flucuate the same frequency as the rubbing sound. When I replaced the tach cable, the needle movement went away, but the rubbing sound didn't.

My next step was to pull the automatic tensioner, clean it up really well and reinstall it, but given Kool Ryder's experience, I'm nervous about pulling the tensioner now.

If not already done, would verify ignition timing with strobe type timing light, and assure correct operation of automatic advancer unit by watching it move back and forth while varying the rpms. Use the F mark, not the T mark.

Also, a too tight intake valve clearance (i.e., valve isn't properly sealing against its seat when closed) may allow some combustion past the leak and back out through the carb.

Imo, the puffing back through the carbs isn't being caused by either too much back pressure or wrong exhaust gaskets. The wrong gasket would leak and be obviously noticed from the noise.

Good Luck!

I think first I would see if all cylinders are firing. It sort of sounds carb like. Could just be coincidence. You did say it was running great just before she quit. Now you need choke to keep running. Timing check is easy too. Check headers for heat. I'd even do a comp check before unbuttoning her. Ya might have too but I would exhaust all exterior checks first.

Chain slip a tooth from the tention being too loose the second time?

first thing first do a compression check

hold the throttle wide open and make sure you have all the other plugs out while your cranking it

if its low, you will either have to adjust the valves or have the head rebuilt (bent valves)

more likely you'll have to adjust the valves,a fairly straightforward thing to do, check your book or look it up on the site.

but perform a compression test asap, hold the throttle wide open and make sure you have all the other plugs out.

Silver wrote:

Chain slip a tooth from the tention being too loose the second time?

that what I think it sounds like. I would guess the initial problem (puffing through the carbs) was unrelated to the timing chain, buuut some how things went south when you adjusted. I would pop the cam cover and check the valve timing before going further.

When you checked the cam chain tension, did you remember to spot the timing plate? I had the buzzsaw effect first time I did the valve clearances, then forgot to position the reference plate (proper name??? ). IIRC, I had to spot it on the corner closest to the timing marks for #2-3, then take up the slack with the tensioner.(This was for my 650C2 BTW).

Yea, that's how you do it, putting the timing plate just like dkmk refers. There's no way adjustng the tensioner can possibly cause less tension than there was previously if you're aligned to this mark because it's a simple spring pressing inward against a slack chain. Other points of rotation of the cams may cause the slack to not be in the rear and loosening the adjuster in this case could cause it to back out. It sounds to me like you didn't have the 2-3 marks aligned when you loosened the adjuster, the adjuster backed up giving all kinds of play in the chain and it probably jumped time. It seems like the 650 is pretty forgiving in this. I've done it all and never bent a valve in a 650 yet.
I've never used the APE manual adjuster, but would try to stay with the Kawasaki manual if possible, as it works just fine.

OK ,,,,,,,
First things first ,
Start with the easy stuff ,
Whatever happened ,happened while you had it apart ,,
You know what you took apart .
Are all the plug wires on the right plugs ?
Is something under the tank pinched ?
A plug wire or fuel line ?
Did you unplug or move any wires while you had it apart ?
Is there enough clean oil in it ?
Does your oil pressure light work ?
Maybe change your oil & filter and LOOK for little pieces of black plastic or metal .

Its all cheap and almost no work .

THanks for the advice guys.

I was told by the mechanic who looked at my bike a year ago that the tensioner was on the way out. That is the reason for the new one.

I realy think that I did the adjustment right, but i think that the tensioner is at fault.

I lined up the timing plate (corner just past the 2-3 mark) 2 revolutions back to mark, back out the tensioner bolt and all the slack should be taken up.

My logic is that if I followed the instructions properly and the tensioner was suspect all along, then it must be the culpret.

So, what is the easiest way to remove the tensioner? It is held in place with 2 / 10 mm bolts that are not easy to reach, anyone have any suggestions?

Will I have to pull the carbs to access the tensioner, or is it possible to install without doing so.

I am learning the hard-way.

KR

You about have to pull the carbs to remove the tensioner, then it simply unbolts with the 2 6mm bolts. I wonder what the mechanic meant by "tensioner on it's way out". After you remove the tensioner and look at it, it's basically just a spring loaded rod that pushes inward on the chain in the engine to take up slack. The spring load is activated by loosening the 6mm bolt on the end of the tensioner, then when the bolt is tightened it holds the rod in place so it can't back up. It's so simple it's rediculous and it works just fine and should never fail. Most failures are overtightening the bolts and stripping the threads. Other possible failures of course like a broken spring, or rod seized in the tensioner. One of the good aspects of this tensioner is has plenty of range and will always tension the chain no matter how worn it is really, unlike the auto tensioner used 1979-up. I'd have to look at my notes, but I know I went 130,000 miles plus on my 78 with this tensioner, then I replaced it because the mushroom part of the rod was cracked. Even cracked it worked just fine. I'll bet your 3 idler sprockets rubber centers have all gone bad.