81 kz1000 low compression

Sandy wrote:

Personally,I would keep that shim gap on the higher side.(.004)

+1

On mine I set them .003 - .005.

Speaking of rings and cylinder wall wear...

How many miles on this engine?

Anybody ever do a valve job on it yet?

Ok got valve clearances all within spec. I couldn't fit a .03mm gauge in either valve for that cylinder. After fixing that compression has definitely increased. I checked it with the timing a little off and got around 90. I'm pretty sure I had my cams both in time with each other but left the slack at the front of the engine instead of the back... just to be sure, does anyone have a diagram of the timing marks? I read somewhere you count 28 links or something between a mark on one cam and a mark somewhere else... Searching helped me half way, but couldn't find anywhere that said specifically what to do. Also, does it matter which T' mark I use? there's one by the F' and one by itself... I'm pretty sure one is for compression stroke and one is for exhause stroke? Something like that. Also, this is a 1981 kz1000 LTD if it makes a difference. Anyway thanks alot in advance.

You really need the service manual for lining up the cams. maybe somebody can post the relevant info.

I'm pretty sure I had my cams both in time with each other but left the slack at the front of the engine instead of the back.

If your crankshaft turns clockwise, I think you take up the slack on the front side of the chain and feed it onto the exhaust cam first. Then you link count over to the intake and set that cam by the # of links distance.

Check the manual, but I think the chain has to be taught on whichever side the crankshaft gear "pulls from" if you know what I mean.

It's reversed on my twin, but I think yours spins clockwise at the shafts.

Clock wise it is! Do not go backward. Timing the cams is tricky, even when reading the book. First get your timing mark found within the ignition cover on T 1&4 and that will bring cyl 1&4 up to TDC tHEN PULL YOUR TIMING CHAIN TO PULL OUT SLACK. Forget the caps. Take the exhaust cam and with the writing side of the cam facing no.4 cylinder, place in head. You will see marking ex then arrow above it, place arrow in such a way that it points level withtop of engine head edge. place it into the chain with arrow still pointing to edge. Observe where cam lobe on exhaust four is pointing, then place intake cam in opposite or mirror position. This in turn will help you to figure out which chain rivet is the 44th. Place cam in head and count no.1 rivet from the arrow, to 44 rivet which should be on the edge of the head on intake. Make sure you are still on TDC 1&4. Bolt down cams but don't torque fully till you have turned engine over clockwise to check timing, then torquewhen complete. If anything jams during turnover, check for piston to cam lobe locations for valve to piston interactions. If all seems clear but still jam check for shim displacing itself in top of bucket( I had that experience) Good luck and remember this site is not responsible for expensive mistakes. I too have a 81 LTD 1000 and have removed the head 3 times. Also To get that cover off just move gas tank disconnect sparkplugs and remove coils and move the wiring harness out of the way alittle. High idle after the work? Check throttle cable position