Gasket sealer?

I'm finally changing my cam end plugs to stop that oil leak that's been bothering me. I also have a leak at my left engine cover (I guess that's the alternator cover). I was planning on cleaning the surfaces thoroughly and using permatex or some kind of sealer. What do you guys do?

I'm sure there's many more folks who have done this. I personally like to use 3-Bond gasket sealer for the cam plugs. I have only once removed the alternator cover and I used the Copper coat gasket compound on that. It hasn't leaked yet.

Good luck!

Cooper sealer work s great I use that on all gasket surfaces that you can not see. But if you can see the surface I use ultra black sealer. Stay away from any thing that says silicone, like blue rtv.

I use no gasket sealer unless specifically called for in the FSM. The gasket is the seal. The whole idea is to be able to get the thing apart easily when you have to work on it again.

Exception is temp repair to deteriorated rubber components.

-Duck

Great insight Duck! Bwhahahaha How do you get your cam end plugs to stick in the ends of the cylinder head without gasket goop? Sorry... I hate it when I am a wise guy!

I use Permatex copper colored gasket maker for this. It seems to work as well as anything and works better for this purpose than Hondabond HT or Yamabond #4. I think the silicon based goop (resists oil deterioration) is stickier than these case sealer type products. I have been tempted to use epoxy or liquid nitrile rubber but haven't ever done so.

Okay, stupid question (but I'd like to ask you instead of finding out the hard way), what if I don't use any sealer on it, if it leaks will it ruin the gasket?

The stator cover won't leak if you don't use gasket sealer if that is your question. There isn't much oil getting in under that cover... the leak you have probably isn't the gasket AT ALL. It is more likely coming from around the rubber plug that the wires from the stator pass through. These are generally hard and where any leak occurs. Also, they were generally put in place many years ago with silicon that really just deteriorates especially around the oil and heat. You will have to take the stator cover off to fix the problem. I would install a new rubber piece but that would unsoldering the wires at the stator end. I would also just use new wire as the old ones are probably cracked and brittle.

To do this stuff, you need to unplug the wires up near the fuse box. On most bikes, this will be a big blue plug on a junction box. Then remove the stator cover and take out the 3 bolts holding the stator. Turn the stator over and pop it down on your work bench and the stator will fall out. The rubber plug can then be pried out. Splice new wires in and solder them at both ends. These wires carry the AC that gets turned into DC on your bike that run everything so the condition of these wires is a bit important. You will have to remove your starter to get the wires out as they pass below and under it. There will also be connectors on this harness from the oil idiot light (most bikes) and neutral switch connected at the countershaft sprocket.

I like to use liquid nitrile rubber to seal the new plug. Make sure you put something on the plug to keep it seated and flush as the sealer dries. I have also used Permatex copper gasket goop and Hondabond HT and other stuff but these don't work all that great and leaks can reappear.

You will need a new gasket for the stator cover when you put it back on. Make sure you know what is leaking before getting in there as you will have to find one of the plugs if that is the leak spot.

Here ya go WG

FSM sez, "...applying a liquid gasket (silicone sealant) to the circumference of each rubber plug before installation."

Besides, they are plugs, not gaskets.

There's always the exception. For example if the surface the gasket is supposed to seal is damaged, I will apply some sealant. But only where it's needed. I'm new to bikes but have been working on cars for a LONG time.

-Duck

WG I've read a couple great posts from you today, you are definately "on" your game today. You need to write a book on KZ's sometime...

on gaskets:

I reassembled everything from the base gasket upwards on my 1100 with only grease to hold the gaskets in place. a little sealant around the cam plugs. there was a great deal of smoke when the grease burnt off, but after 2 years I've had only the tiniest bit of weeping; not even enough to drip. If you have good surfaces and proper torque you are most of the way there.

Why grease? Someone had fed me a line that oil causes gaskets to swell up and seal, and that putting a little grease on them would speed the process. I'm pretty certain I read it on the old site, and it could be found in the archives, but I'm not gonna bother looking right now. I'm just pleased its doing well, and hoping I'll have less time with the permatex gasket dissolver spray when I bother to open it up and change the rings.

I have used grease in the past to hold gaskets in place. It doesn't do any harm. I like the NAPA product because it is easy to apply (spray), has high tack properties (gasket sticks to wherever you put it) and it will provide a nice positive seal if the gasket mating surface is a bit irregular. Some KZs seem to have the mating surfaces sort of etched or rough compared to others. My "barney" carb test bike is one such and every darn gasket on the bike leaked... it was embarrassing and irritating as I had cleaned/prepped the surfaces with a lot of care. I asked the fellas down at the NAPA store what would solve this problem and they recommended the spray on NAPA gasket sealer. I have found that gaskets applied using this stuff come off about as easily as a dry gasket and it really helped me out with the Barney bike as that bike no longer leaks. I am sold on the stuff. I have also used Permatex copper form-a-gasket for applications like brother Duck mentioned... gasket mating surface gouged or VERY warped. (Duck - I was just funnin' ya!) bwhahaha

No worries WG.
I do not mind a bit and will reciprocate whenever possible

We'll have to try some of that NAPA stuff around here.

-Duck

Nice thread.

Having the same leak on my bike.

I'm looking through parts diagrams, and the Clymer is really murky on photo reference here... this Oil Plug that the wires pass through, does anyone have a part number or an off the shelf substitute?

I need to change the oil anyway, but is it normally required to drain the pan before doing this fix?