TOP END GASKET CHANGE

OK, now I finally have my top end gasket kit and oil line O rings, Clymer at hand, all the proper tools (including a borrowed torque wrench) so I can say that I´m ready to my first big mechanical work. BTW, I´m a little scared too, don´t want to mess things up:huh:

I,ve read the Clymer thoroughly, memorized the procedure, but I have a few questions to ask:

1.- Which is the best way to scrap off old gasket?

2.- Having half of the engine open, what things should I check just to be sure everything else is OK, and if there are any flaws, fix them before closing engine again?

3.- I´ve found a Vesrah kit for the 1981-82 KZ550 (at a very good price, already bought it), looking at it I think that it would fit my ´84 Gpz550 mill, what do you guys think abot it? Looking at my engine´s valve cover I´ve discovered that the gasket sticks out the cover sides, and the part sticking out is round shaped, so I guess that it already has a KZ550 gasket kit on...

4.- Should I oil the new gaskets to install them, or use some hi-temp sealant?

5.- Any other piece of advice that fits...

As you see, I am not that experienced in this kind of job, although I have good wrenching skills. Have had many bikes in my life, from little DT125, XL185 and bigger 600-650 trail bikes, but all of them had just one cylinder! So any kind of advice about my new challenge will be most welcomed.

Cheers from Argentina!

I would buy some Permatex gasket remover and let that do most of the work. Don't use a razor blade, use something a bit duller to scrape it off. You don't want to put gouges in the aluminum.

I put a thin coat of grease on gaskets. The problem with some other sealants, like silicone rubber types, is they ooze into the inside, and little blobs can break off and clog oil passages.

Thanks OKC for your answer! Can you be a little more specific about Permatex? We don´t have that product down here in Argentina, so if you can give some mores details, ie: composition, or some other product that can do the job, maybe paint thinner, I don´t know...

Thanks a lot anyway, and if anybody else has some advice about this one, it´ll be most apprciated!

Cheers

It would have been easier to answer your questions if I knew WHY you were replacing gaskets. I have to assume that a gasket leak has developed and that is the ONLY reason you know of. FIRST... Check your compression BEFORE tearing into the engine. Remove your spark plugs and use a gauge that fits into a plug hole. If compression is within spec, you may just want to replace the gasket that is leaking which I am going to guess is a head gasket. If you want to freshen performance, new rings and cleaning up the cylinder head are not very difficult and you do have the gaskets. You could also replace the cam chain and any rubber bits in the tensioning system's parts while in there but that would require more extensive work unless you use a master-link type chain. How many miles are on the bike and are do you consider the mileage accurate?

You asked:


1.- Which is the best way to scrap off old gasket?

It has been mentioned that Permatex makes a gasket remover. They make both a spray and gel type remover. You put it on the old gasket material and it softens it somewhat. On a scale of usefulness for heavy gasket material on a scale of 1-10 where 10 is MOST useful, I find this stuff about a 3. If you don't have it, don't worry about it. To scrape, get a butter knife and break off about 1/2" of the tip; then file the edge sharp. Scrape gingerly so as not to scar the soft aluminum mating surface. When you get the bulk of the old gasket off, you can use a Dremmel wire brush attachment or drill with a SOFT (fine) wire brush to clean the rest of the gasket. Make sure both surfaces are clean and wipe them with high-flash point solvent to remove residues... gas works fine.


2.- Having half of the engine open, what things should I check just to be sure everything else is OK, and if there are any flaws, fix them before closing engine again?

Before removing the cam shafts or upper idler assembly, I suggest you keep the tensiorer on the cam chain and turn the engine over by hand and observe the chain as it rolls over the tensioner. If it tends to bunch some, the chain should probably be replaced. Once the head is off, the amount of carbon in the combustion chamber will be an indication of whether the cylinder head needs to come apart. Almost all will have some carbon but if the carbon in the chambers and piston top if very heavy, then I would do more clean up. Ask about this if you have this situation.



3.- I´ve found a Vesrah kit for the 1981-82 KZ550 (at a very good price, already bought it), looking at it I think that it would fit my ´84 Gpz550 mill, what do you guys think abot it? Looking at my engine´s valve cover I´ve discovered that the gasket sticks out the cover sides, and the part sticking out is round shaped, so I guess that it already has a KZ550 gasket kit on...

Dunno???



4.- Should I oil the new gaskets to install them, or use some hi-temp sealant?

No oil. I use NAPA brand spray gasket sealer. It is a tacky substance that will also hold a gasket onto its mating surface. This stuff works wonders in preventing leaks. There are other gasket dressings that do the same and while they make clean up, upon disassembly a bit more trouble, they help you avoid leaks. The folks at an autoparts store in your area can make suggestions as can a local car mechanic that you trust since this stuff may not be available to you down where you live but they will have a comparable product. NO OIL on the gaskets!

5.- Any other piece of advice that fits...

See preliminary suggestions. If you take off the engine covers, you may want to replace the engine seals at that time as well. Seal kits are not expenisve for most bikes and are easy to install.

Thanks George, you`re kind of a KZ Bible!

The engine is leaking a little oil from the cylinder base, right side. I suspect is a faulty gasket and maybe the oil line O-ring as well. I will check the cam chain, rubber and plastic tensioner bits, cylinder liners, rings, etc. Must borrow a compression gauge, I hope to find one among my friends down here... I parked the bike till this job is done, though the leak is not that big to worry about running out of oil and I check oil level every morning, but my right shoe gets stained every time I ride the bike! LOL

The bike has 30,000+ miles, but I bought it with a broken speedo cable, so I can´t really tell how many miles are on the bike... It runs fine, doesn`t smoke at all, and is in a general good shape. I know that it came in 1994 from USA, when Argentina still allowed used vehicle importing.

I will follow your advice, and if I see myself at some sort of dead-end, be sure that I will ask for more help!

Thanks a lot, cheers.

30K plus miles means that a new cam chain is in order. The rubber bits on the rollers and the rubber thing that pushes the chain is also questionable at that mileage. I would just get this stuff and re-ring and disassemble the cylinder head at 30K miles to freshen the engine. Not sure about parts availability for the 550 but the parts are readily available for a 900/1000. The cam chain rollers ride on a metal arm/sleeve that has rubber pads... this is mainly what I am talking about as these bits tend to harden and will make the whole cam chain area noisey. The chain will be stretched some. Look carefully at the rubber on the rollers and upper idler assembly but they are usually OK at 30K miles.