I think im going to be sick

k here the scoop, did a compression test that should #1 at 50#, others were 160#. did the leak down test and it was blowing back through the exhaust. k not a big deal at this point, pulled the head thinking ill do a valve job on it and be good. so when i pulled the head off, i notice #1 want quite at tdc while number 4 was. rotated the engine, @and 3 came up at same rate and hit tdc same time. so the thing i think is going to put me over the edge is, #4 hits top dead center while #1 is still about a 1/4 from the top. is this normal or do i have a bent rod or f'd up crank.:blush:

probably twisted crank:(

i didnt need to hear that crap. but that would explain why i had a hell of a time getting the carbs set.

i imagine thats better then a bent rod. Don't worry about it too much bro. you can pick up a good crank on ebay for 60 bucks shipped pretty easily

just one of those things that you hear "oh it just needs a battery" and spend a grand to buy a bike with a bent crank. really pisses me off. but to be fair, i got the bike from a friend and i know he wouldnt willingly sell it to me if he knew, i guess it could have happened while i was trying to tune the carbs, but it never popped that bad that i would think it would twist it, who knows. well i guess now might be a good time to look for a oversize piston kit, lol. so much for my gas saver, wonder how long i can keep this from the wife.

i think the current record is 3 days... :silly:

been hiding things for years ,no sweat!:laugh:

Just steal the money from her and blame it on the kids(if you have any) and she won't know what you spent.:huh:

Seriously though...sorry to hear that.Shitty buzz!

too late, she came out to the garage and wondered why the engine was out of the "new bike", she didnt believe that i was changing the oil. looking at the crank, the journals on 2,3 come straight up at the same time, 1,and 4 are alittle off, definately thinking twisted crank. anyone got a good one laying around? will this one work?
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessorie...sh=item170221345143&

You could remove the crank and send it off to have it trued and welded, then it would not twist again

Falicon comes to mind, but APE probably does it along with a dozen more.

what kind of chunk of change do you think it would cost me, im kind of on a liited budget with this thing now after buying it. ive got a guy here in town that does cranks for a ton of racers, even guys down south. im sure hed be able to do it, ill have to swing in tomm. looking on the bright side, ill get to paint the cases now. looking at the manual, it has me pulling a ton of crap off, other that the case bolts, what has to come off to swap out a crank? the covers im sure cuz they connect the two cases, but can some of the stuff stay just to do the crank?

one mor ething i just thought of, i know the crnks on the 1000 is a two piecr that gets pressed together, im wondering about the twisting , if the #1 is twisted alittle bit, w2ouldnt the 2, 3 be off too. the 2 and 3 pistons hit tdc at same time. 1,4 are off by about a 1/4 inch, but im thinking if it twisted, shouldnt 2 and 3 be off as well?