HELP No Start!!!! UPDATE

nope didnt mess with that

When you setup the timing did you count the correct number of pins from the exhaust mark to the intake mark?

If the bike ran prior to disassembly then just backtrack and double check everything you can think of.

All fuses good?
Coils getting power?
What kind of spark do you get with the plug pulled and resting on the head then cranking the engine?

When setting ignition timing, be sure to use the F marks and NOT the T marks.

Good Luck!

j_bizach wrote:

Other than the valve the only thing i could think of is the spark is to weak. How do you test the coils.

Try this link. Go to page 186 in your viewing window or 176 of the manual. It will take a while to load hope you don't have a dial up connection.

Good luck
Click here

done that already

Some questions, observations and opinions ---

Should not run engine without exhaust headers affixed.

What did compression test show for psi on each cylinder?

Static method of ignition timing (without engine running) may be fairly close, but spot-on ignition timing requires running engine (dynamic timing usually with a strobe-light).

One coil's dual plug wires should go to outside sparkplugs #1 (far left nearest shift lever) and #4 (far right nearest rear brake pedal). The other coil's dual plug wires should go to inside sparkplugs #2 and #3. Please double-check these connections.

If the valve cover hasn't been removed and the cams haven't been disturbed, the cam timing may be okay, especially considering the bike's low mileage. With decent compression, the engine should run even with valves a little tight. So we won't worry too much about the valve clearances for the time being.

What condition is the battery?
What does the voltage measure across the battery terminals?
What is the voltage between the positive battery terminal and the engine head?
Sometimes there's a faulty connection where the ground wire from the negative battery terminal attaches to its ground on the engine or frame.
Would also consider doing a specific gravity test. And getting the battery load-tested.
When in doubt, replace the battery.

What does the voltage measure at the coil?
How much drop in voltage between the battery and coil?
Anything under 12 volts at the coil means a weaker spark at the plugs -- often too weak for good combustion inside the cylinder.

Coil resistance is measured beween the primary winding terminals. Typically, a coil has two input wires. One input wire may be yellow/red providing battery voltage to the coil. The other input wire is a different color (maybe black on one coil and green on the other coil). So one coil would have a yellow/red wire and a green wire into its primary windings . And the other coil have a yellow/red wire and a black wire into its primary windings. Often these two input wires are permanently attached at the coil end where they are fitted to the coil primary winding terminals. The other ends of the coil input wires may be unplugged to test the coil primary winding. Use ohmmeter to measure between the unplugged ends. It should be about 3-4 ohms.

The coil secondary winding is measured at the coil where the sparkplug wires exit, or between the ends of the two sparkplug wires, or between the insides of the sparkplug caps. So the measurement runs through the coil secondary winding. It should be very high ohms such as 20k (20,000 ohms), sometimes higher or lower.

Would first suspect poor battery condition. If battery is for sure okay, next suspect drop in voltage (due to old wirings and connections) between battery and coil.

Would also install 4 brand-new NGKB8ES sparkplugs.

Must admit something seems fishy about the reported condition of the various components. If everything was so perfect with the ignition timing, and good spark at the plugs, and with decent compression, there is just no way the engine wouldn't fire when using a quality starter fluid through the carb intakes. So imo there is something amiss with either the ignition timing or the cam timing or the quality of spark or the compression. And if the cam timing has been disturbed, all bets are off.

Am hoping this overview will be helpful toward analyzing and diagnosing the problem of no combustion when using starter fluid. Imo, the problem is likely weak spark or improperly timed spark. Otherwise, with decent compression, the cylinder would fire with starter fluid.

Good Luck!

Thank you for your time. Yes I know that something sounds off about my situation but that is wats so frustrating.

Compression range from 123-130-127-120
The battery is brand new.
The timing is close. Ive tried adjusting it then atempting to starting the bike.
Brand new spark plugs and wires.
Both coil pack are good (took them to a dealership)

I have not poked around it yet to measure voltage because i dont have the tool. Money is tight at the time and no extra money means no new tools. Does anyone rent a voltage tester (my minds drawing a blank of the name) like autozone?

Thanks for the report.

Here's a theory and an inexpensive test.

Underneath the fuel tank is a dual connector on a red/yellow wire.
A separate red/yellow wire from each coil fits into the dual connector. The red/yellow wires carry positive battery voltage to the coils from the battery.

Old crusty connections and wires along the way between the battery and coils may be draining off some of the voltage before it gets to the coils. So even with everything else being okay with the battery, ignition and compression, the "good" coils simply don't have enough voltage to do a proper job of firing the good sparkplugs.

Pull both red/yellow coil wires out of the dual connector.

Get an extra length of wire from somewhere (even a piece of lampcord wire will suffice), and connect one end directly to the positive battery terminal. Connect the other end to the two plugs removed from the dual connector. The idea is to hotwire the battery positive terminal direct to the red/yellow wires going into the coils. Thus avoiding, superceding and temporarily replacing the bike's old wiring.

This is the same as switching the ignition to the ON position, so don't leave the hotwire connected for an extended time.

With the hotwire connecting the battery positive to the coil inputs, this should furnish full battery voltage to both coils.

Leave the petcock turned off. Now try to crank the engine while spraying starter fluid into the carb intakes. The starter fluid temporarily removes fuel delivery and carb function from the equation.

If the engine attempts to fire and crank up. Turn the petcock on and try again. Remember not to run the engine over just a second or two without the exhaust headers attached, because running without the exhaust headers attached can easily damage the exhaust valves.

Let us know what happens. And if this doesn't work, we'll try something else.

Good Luck!

with all the cranking you have done ,the plugs should be wet or gas fouled, if the yare not wet then you are not getting fuel, if they are wet get a new set, also you can check to make sure they are fireing by putting the timing light on each plug

I will try that with a couple other things tomarrow and post an update. My neighbor (he's own bikes all his life and knows a lot of stuff) came over tonite and spent two hours working on it tring to get it to start finally he looked at me and said i give up theres nothing in theory that would prevent this bike from starting, if i was you id have given up and sold it. Unfortunatly for some reason once i start fixing something ill drive myself nuts before i give up.:S

Thanks for the idea

update

audjusted the cam timing a little bit i guess it was off a little i really didnt think it was off that much but it now runs differently since i adjusted it so obiously that was part of the problem. Now when i go to start it if i put the choke on and pump the throtle between half open and fully open it will pop but its only on number 4 the far right cyl. Thats the only cyl the exhaust is hot on. the other 3 are ice cold

j_bizach wrote:

...when i go to start it if i put the choke on and pump the throtle between half open and fully open....

Was this the neighbor's technique?

Throttle should remain fully closed. Just leave it alone. Best not to even touch it. And for goodness sakes don't pump it.

Enrichener circuit (choke) has its own separate independent passageways inside the carb. It is designed to function only with the throttle fully closed. And will not function unless the throttle is fully closed and remains fully closed.

What about voltage at the coil? And the hot-wire test?

Good Luck!