Oups................... Piece drop in

Was planning to put the cylinder on.

While I was trying to pass the chain trough the cylinder, the small piece of metal use on the chain ajuster felt down the chain hole..........:woohoo:

Do you think this will be down the oil pan? Or is there a esay way to get this out?

Tks,
Joce

Try using one of those magnet probes. Its basically a strong magnet attached to a telescoping rod. Try feeding the magnet end down the hole and see if it will attach to the piece of metal you dropped. It shouldn'tmatter if there's oil down there the magnet should still work fine. Be careful not to drop the magnet probe down the hole too.

If you have the cylinders off the engine, the chain adjuster should be removed from the head and should be on the workbench somewhere. The spring didn't fall out too did it?

I'm thinking that MAYBE he's talking about a piece from the cam-chain tower,up top??
Was it one of the plates in between the rubber dampners that fell?

Don't forget(either way)...you can always drain the oil,pull the filter,and get up in there THAT way with a magnet(on a wire).

I'm in the same boat on this one, I dropped a valve shim down the chain hole. I've tried the magnet trick and it hasn't picked it up. I'm going to drain the oil and remove the filter tomorrow, hopefully it comes out. If that fails, how much work is involved in opening up the bottom end? I've been hoping to avoid this as I've never worked on one before.

Oil pan for the most part is not that hard to get off. There are 3 different size bolts
so look at them when you take them out. Worst part is having to lay on your
back and see what you are doing. Take all the bolts out and wack it
with a pice of wood. Check the O ring that under the pan as well.
You'll be surprised at all the crap you will find on the bottom of the pan.
As long as you have it off, epoxy a magnet to the bottom, to ketch any
metal shaving in the future.

Good Luck
XENU

It's a good practice to drop the pan when you do a rebuild anyway. Over time, a layer of black dirty sediment accumulates in the oil pan, and it contaminates the clean oil you put in. Only way to get it out is drop the pan and scrub it.

You can also clean things down there and replace the O rings on the pump if you want.

I dropped the pan and found my lost shim. bountyhunter was right about the sediment on the bottom of the pan. So now I've got the pan cleaned up but the old gasket is driving me nuts. It's pretty much fused itself on. To make it even worse it's stuck to the engine case, not the oil pan. I spent about 2 hours on my back scraping at it and only managed to get about a quarter of it off. Anyone have any good tips on how to get this off easier?

Just about any good auto parts store will carry an assortment of aerosol propelled and/or brush-on gasket removers.
What are you using to scrap the old gasket off with?
If using just a standard razor blade, it WILL take forever that way, and you stand a chance of gouging the surfaces and causing oil leaks.
Do yourself a favor, while at the auto parts store to get some gasket remover, also get one of those cheapy (usually less than $5) gasket scrappers.
You'd be amazed at how much more control you have and how much quicker it will make removing the old gasket.

Thanks for the tip, I wasn't sure if there was such a thing as gasket remover. I was using a razor, and it does take forever. I'll stop by the parts shop tomorrow.

The reason it's so hard to get off is because the factory uses an adhesive which is VERY hard to remove. The "gasket removers" I used did nothing on mine, but I wish you luck on yours.

I used a single edged razor blade and a pocket knife, and scotchbrite pads to polish the edge after the gasket is off. It is a miserable, time wasting job but worth it to keep the edge smooth. If it's any consoltaion, I spent something like five hours cleaning all the gasket and adhesive off the crankcase and cylinder from the base gasket.

BTW, if you do inflict some nicks in the stripping process (pretty much unavoidable) use some black ultra high temp RTV sealer when you put the pan back on. It will never leak and it is not permanent like the stuff the factory uses.

IF, and I say IF the pan gasket wasn't leaking before you took it off and it is still one piece and not cracked anywhere, I would leave it on and just glue the new one to the pan.