1105 streetable?

starting to work on my '77 kz1000 engine. i would like to know if you guys think that a 1105 is still streetable with an oil cooler set up.

i wil be running the k435 (?) cams from ape plus 10.25:1 compression kit. ported heads and bigger carbs (not sure if i will be running them riht away, might have to run the stock carbs for a while)

let me know what you all think.

thanks

It depends how you plan on riding the bike, and whether you plan on boring out the stock sleeves or going with oversize sleeves.

Personally, I think that setup is too much and you run the risk of 1) causing the sleeves to distort, 2) having a bike that's not fun to ride around.

There are folks who will tell you can run 1105cc pistons in the stock sleeves, but there are others who have run into compression problems after cooking the engine.

With 0.435" lift you must go with underbucket shims & heavy-duty valve springs. You will lose much of the streetability, but have a fast motorcycle. 0.435" lift is not what you want for about town...

ditto!:whistle:

1105s with stock sleeves doesnt leave enough meat to seal rings ,if you spend a lot of time running down highway cooling shouldnt be as much of an issue but if you spend a lot of time running in stop-go traffic you will be heading for a meltdown even with an oil cooler(been there done it allready:whistle: )those are some serious cams that motor is going to run rough in the lower end ,loading up etc which will add to the overheating issues.have you thought abought a 1075 kit? goodluck,happy wrenching!

If the question is "Will a properly prepared 1105 kitted bike be ok for street?", then the answer is yes. A 84 GPZ1100 is basically a hopped up KZ1000. It has bigger carbs, hotter cams and more displacement. The extra ponies might cause back end to break loose as you still have 70's era frame and backwheel size.

I ran a 1132cc motor years ago on the street without too many problems. It had an oil cooler(Lockhart-I think it was a 3-row) and even with it, the motor would run ok as long as I didn't lug it too much or sit in traffic for too long. If I did, it would run hot and you could hear slight detonation and pinging in the motor. It had smoothbores and stock head and cams. A ported head will help though. Those cams are on the edge for a street bike though. They are streetable, but like above, they are more for top end power and will be touchy for the street. Knew a guy running cams about that lift and it was like a light switch. Bottom end was a little weak but when hit right rpm, bike would take off...hard to regulate sometimes. A 1075 kit in 1000 sleeves would be a better set-up. Lots of meat left in sleeves and these motors have been holding up for years! Not that much difference in displacement. Run a GOOD cooler!!! Get some good carbs also. It's the combination of parts you want to run. You can run this motor on the street, just don't expect it to run as smooth as a stocker. Good luck.

well guys, i am pretty hard on my engines. i rev them alot, mostly keep the engine running in the upper part of the rpm range (4500 plus alomost all of the time).

that is kind of why i am looking at running the hotter cams. i really just want to get the most power out of my engine with out really hurting it with riding it hard. also, i don't want to go with a big block. i do not have that much money.

so to make this short. please help me build a motot with the most power, for the street with out putting mega dollars in it.

need as much help as possible.

ok you gys have talked me into a 1075 10.25comp kit kit. sounds like the best set up to run. now lets talk about the rest.

i have alot of experience with small block chevy's. and know about "hotter" cams. that is why i have been looking at the 435 cam insted of the 410 cams. as noted above. i run my engines in the upper part of the rpm range most of the time (75% of the time i would say)

head ports are already smoothed out. will be doing a valve job for sure. dyna s ignition. what about increasing the comp ratio by milling the head a bit?

as far as carbs. what do you guys think about carb size? i have the stock carbs right now, can't i just run them "fat" by jetting them? or would it be beter to replace them with 36's or bigger?

as you all can tell i like the ape kz zone site. this is wher i will be getting alot of my parts. also i have gotten alot of my ideas from here and there site.
could some one give me an idea of what type of hp i would be geting with a set up like this (rear wheel) i am shooting to get 130 plus i hope. .

thanks again, sorry for rambling on

also i will be geting parts from z1, thanks jeff, just had to add that. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

carefull with decking that head unless its just to get the head straight that will add to your overheating problems and you will mixing your own gas or buying a lot of octane booster which is a big ripoff,youll also have to slot your cam chain sprockets which is going to complicate your cam timing.as far as carbs go,im thinking about taking the 38s off my 1327 and putting some 36s or 34s on there to make it more drivable,my old 1170 has an old set of 33s and it hits like a sledgehammer from 6500 on up i run out of :blink: before i ever outrun those carbs!bwaha if you really want to make it to be spunky try a 900 crank with that 1075 topend,make sure you get a 2"over swingarm to go with it though!goodluck,happy wrenching:whistle:

can you tell me what would putting in a 900 crank help. shorter through? like a stroker?

thanks

counterweights on 1000 crank are big and heavy,900 counterweights are shaped more like a porkchop they are lighter and let the motor rev a lot quicker,if you like high rpm motors that is the way to go .they will standup a lot easier though thats why i reccomend the 2"over swingarm! :whistle: goodluck,happy wrenching!smallblock chevys hum;) picture the old 302 chevy 4"bore with a 283 crank,instant throttle response!:woohoo:

Post edited by: wireman, at: 2006/02/04 14:09