Rod bearings

Great thanks for all your help.
I will try and get all my measurements within a day or so. I have access to a bore gauge that I use at work. I will have too by those other micrometers this weekend. I'm sure I will be using them plenty for the rest of the engine.
I tried too measure some of the rods and bearings today but nothing was really making sense. I was not getting any numbers close too what the book said. I'm going to try them again tomorrow. I have used plasti gauge long time ago it does seem kinda like a close guess. I was also told that they should be kept in a refrigerator for some reason or another.

As far as the acid on my fingers etching the bearings I'm just gonna play it same and use gloves any ways.

I will let you all know how my progress is going.

Thanks Again Scott

PLUMMEN wrote:

use plastigauge to check your clearances afer your machine work if any is done to make sure youve got right pieces as you start final assembly;)i know the oil from fingerprints will cause bare metal pieces to rust,polish a piece of steel and touch it with your fingers and watch rust fingerprints apear

Every gunsmith has seen that on blue steel guns stored for a long time.

But, it does depend on the type of steel and it certainly wouldn't do it if the "touched" area was stripped with solvent and then re oiled.

I don't think bearings are "damaged" by touching unless they are allowed to rust. Maybe not, but I doubt it.

im sure it wont hurt a bearing,just saying that ive seen first hand what it will do versus regular motor oil on bare metal.

Back of the bearing is steel, top of the bearing is babbit, and only ferrous (based on iron) materials rust. Bearings are usually tri-layer, steel-copper-babbit.

Some people can touch steel and caus it to almost instantly rust, others can touch steel and have no affect on it, guess it depends on the chemical make up of their bodies.

steell wrote:

Back of the bearing is steel, top of the bearing is babbit, and only ferrous (based on iron) materials rust. Bearings are usually tri-layer, steel-copper-babbit.

Some people can touch steel and caus it to almost instantly rust, others can touch steel and have no affect on it, guess it depends on the chemical make up of their bodies.

So which type of steel/steell are you, the good kind or the bad rusty kind????

Scott, don't know about availability of 650 bearings but there is a set (-1) of NOS OEM crank bearings on ebay starting at $5.00 each set. Thought you might be interested...

650 crank bearings

650 crank bearings

Post edited by: Bluemeanie, at: 2008/02/20 18:24

BSKZ650 wrote:

steell wrote:

Back of the bearing is steel, top of the bearing is babbit, and only ferrous (based on iron) materials rust. Bearings are usually tri-layer, steel-copper-babbit.

Some people can touch steel and caus it to almost instantly rust, others can touch steel and have no affect on it, guess it depends on the chemical make up of their bodies.

So which type of steel/steell are you, the good kind or the bad rusty kind????

Personally, I'd guess I qualify as the rusty kind of steell, but I'm not the kind that makes steel rust when I touch it

Despite a Field Service Bulletin from GM, a lot of us still use Plastigage. The FSB had us buying a special tool, with costly adapters for each GM engine out there. Hmmmm!

The advantage Plastigage offers is that it allows the stressed measurement of clearances. That is, with the parts assembled and bolts torqued to spec. the way the machine would operate. A good way to see this is to put a strip on a journal and snug a pair of bolts; take the bolts out and measure. Re-tighten to torque and note the difference! That little bit of difference could spoil your whole day (season).

Rather than the strip guide the Plastigage comes in, we use the digital caliper to measure width. We can also see (and measure!) the unevenness in the flattened Plastigage. That information tells us whether a block and/or crank needs a trip to a machine shop.

Dirtybiker wrote:

As far as the acid on my fingers etching the bearings I'm just gonna play it same and use gloves any ways.

You're all right! I don't care what anybody says about you.

Even if it probably won't hurt the bearing, you're definitely not going to double the life of the engine by wiping a good hard coat of grime into a clean bearing. (And personally, I've never caught more fish by spittin on the lures either.:woohoo: )

Hey thanks for the info about the bearings on eBay but the numbers don't match with the Kawasaki web site parts diagram for my bike. I would hate too buy the wrong ones. Seems like a great deal if I they would work. Also who knows if the guy touched them with his bare hands. I was reading that with crank bearings there is an ( A ) bearing and ( B ) bearing I have ( A ) bearings in my engine. Any one know if there is any truth too that? I am also getting this information from a Z650 manual. Is there a difference between kz and z650 engines?

Also What does the cover of the Factory manual look like. I have the Clymer manual witch after getting the old Hanyes manual kinda sucks. Seems too lack a lot of the specs that I need. I want too get as much information about these bike that I can.

Thanks again for all your help. Scott

Here ya go dirtybiker. Mine shows 77650 but all engines the same and it has a supplement for newer bikes (pumper carbs, auto tensioners, etc) A friend gave me this about 10 years ago, Clymer ok but this is much better.



Post edited by: Bluemeanie, at: 2008/02/22 09:19

Back view in case your curious....