Terrible noise

I just bought this 1981 KZ1000CSR and it has a pretty loud noise at idle and seems to go away at higher RPMs. I have removed the left cover and what appears to be the starter clutch is a little loose. I see movement on these three areas. Are these (yellow arrows)three allen bolts?

Is the hold down bolt (17mm wrench size) RIGHT HAND THREAD?

Post edited by: tubbytwo, at: 2007/12/17 02:37

There are a lot of posts on starter clutches. Did you do a search yet. Those MarkII pieces can be hard to come by. To remove the flywheel put your bike in gear and have a friend hold the rear brake while you remove the big bolt with a impact whench.It comes off counter clockwise. You can get an exploded view on bikebandit. Roy

hey
hey
i belive thats a J

Ooops! It's early. I just looked at the sprocket cover. All the parts look like my engine. Roy

What you need to do is pick up a rotor puller, Z1E has them for under 20 bucks, pull the rotor and replace the allen cap bolts holding the starter clutch to the rotor. If your bike has over 30000 miles on it I suggest you change out the clutch rollers and springs while you have it apart. Be sure to locktite the clutch mounting bolts, degrease the parts first.....You can get new bolts at a hardware store or auto parts store.....I tore my whole engine down looking for this rattle before I realized what it was......chris3

Thanks everyone. So I take it those are the ends of the bolts (loose) I'm seeing. I'll get a puller and remove it with my impact wrench.

This bike cost me $400, mainly because of this noise. Seller figured it needed a rebuild.

Problem solved. Three new stainless bolts and a gasket and it sounds like a new bike.

That's good news. I had the magnets come off the flywheel. There was a lot of noise. After i removed the pieces i had to run a total loss charging system until i found a flywheel. The flywheel type you have are hard to find.
When i pulled my flywheel i used a ball bearing and the large bolt off my front forks. I romoved the flywheel bolt and put the ball bearing in the bolt hole and ran the bolt in with a impact. Roy

I actually bought a $12 puller. I would think a ball bearing would booger up the first few threads of the crank.

The ball bearing works FINE if you get a ball bearing small enough where it won't get stuck. You just need something to stick in the threaded hole and turn the bolt against and this levers off the hub.

Poor Roy's old eyes aren't that bad. The J motor alternator looks EXACTLY like the MK II / ST unit and even the shape of the clutch adjust plate in the countershaft cover looks the same to my eye. If I hadn't seen the guys name or sig or whatever, I couldn't tell the difference by eye.

I once used a ball bearing that was too big and actually drove it in to the threads where it got stuck. Try drilling a ball bearing bwhahahaha What a chore. I ended up making a SMALL dimple in the ball bearing using cobalt drill bits and then was able to use a cobalt cutting bit in my Dremel and I had to cut the bearing out. Heat didn't faze the thing. The cobalt cutting bit can be had a Home Depot. The one positive is that unlike cutting soft metals, the cutting edges don't load up with material like cutting aluminum since the ball bearing is so darn hard. You could also remove the crank and take it to a machine shop... they could put the crank in a drill press and they have bits that would cut a ball bearing (I have been told). MAKE SURE the ball bearing will roll into the hole easily before hitting the bolt with an impact driver.

I have that noise too. I've been meaning to do this repair since I got the bike, I have the next week off so might give-it-a-go. Thanks for the info guys.
Grant

From the picture you provided, it looks like you performed this fix without removing the clutch cable cover and all the other stuff the manual says to remove. Is this so? Not having to remove the clutch cable cover, the starter motor cover, etc. should make this repair go much faster and easier. Do you just disconnect the high tension line coming off the stator cover, or do you leave it connected to the cover and let the cover hang while you remove the stator rotor? Please elaborate.
Grant.