To Locktite or to Anti-Seize, that is my question.

I bought a set of stainless steal bolts for my bike. Inside the package is a note that says "We strongly recommend using anti-seize."

How do you know when you can/should use anti-seize or when you should use loctite instead? The manual seems to specify when to use locktite but there are many times where it doesn't specify either.

Any thoughts?

they are saying to use anti sieze because the ss and alum will corrode, you can still use loctite when you feel the need

My mechanic(car), who also rides (GSXR 1000) says to use anti-sieze anywhere that dissimilar metals meet.

It depends on where the bolts are going to be used. Some applications you want locktite. You can use both. When I'm putting a bolt into aluminium the fist time I use anti-sieze so it dosen't gaul the threads, then I take it off and use locktite.

Many shop manuals specify locations where loctite should be used.

Concur with using anti-seize especially on dissimmilar metals such as steel threads into aluminum cases or other parts.

Am uncertain about using both loctite and anti-sieze simultaneously.

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/12/03 13:54

I was told to do the anti-sieze followed by locktite by a wrench at a bike shop. I figured he had over 20 years of wrenching so he knew what he was talking about.

That is one of the strangest statements I have ever heard... first coat with anti-seize compound and then Loctite? Bwhahahaha If you have evern applied anti-seize compound, you would know it is a greasy goo that nothing will stick to... BTW: I have bought STICKS of anti-seize compound in the past and the sticks are very handy and don't make as much mess as liquid compound.

First, Loctite is used to provide a mechanical lock on a fastener so it doesn't fall off or fall out. It can't be applied over anti-seize compound which is used to ENSURE that a fastener DOES come out. It is used where dis-similar metals are in contact as they react chemically and stick... spark plug thread is one place where I ALWAYS use anti-seize.

I don't think you need anti-seize on stainless case bolts. While they tend to be sticky, the torque initially applied is so little that they come out fairly easy.

Each Kaw Factory Service Manual has a table/chart showing which fasteners require thread locking agent and some even specify which agent to be used... permanent, medium, etc...

Glad you got a laugh out of it. It didn't make sense to me when I was told to do it but I know it works.

The anti-sieze coats the bolt so it dosen't cross thread or rust. The locktite is a plastic that hardens so the bolt will not back out. I do the anti-sieze when I mock up a build. Then I do the locktite since I use it on almost everything (I've had bolts back out without it).

Coat a bolt with anti-sieze.
Bolt it to whatever.
Remove the bolt.
Coat the bolt with locktite. It will coat since the bulk of the anti-sieze stays in the piece it gets threaded into.

It works, if you would like I'll take some pictures of the process.

wiredgeorge wrote:

That is one of the strangest statements I have ever heard... first coat with anti-seize compound and then Loctite? Bwhahahaha If you have evern applied anti-seize compound, you would know it is a greasy goo that nothing will stick to... BTW: I have bought STICKS of anti-seize compound in the past and the sticks are very handy and don't make as much mess as liquid compound.

First, Loctite is used to provide a mechanical lock on a fastener so it doesn't fall off or fall out. It can't be applied over anti-seize compound which is used to ENSURE that a fastener DOES come out. It is used where dis-similar metals are in contact as they react chemically and stick... spark plug thread is one place where I ALWAYS use anti-seize.

I don't think you need anti-seize on stainless case bolts. While they tend to be sticky, the torque initially applied is so little that they come out fairly easy.

Each Kaw Factory Service Manual has a table/chart showing which fasteners require thread locking agent and some even specify which agent to be used... permanent, medium, etc...

very well put..

Thanks for the answers everyone!


Avenger wrote:

Coat a bolt with anti-sieze.
Bolt it to whatever.
Remove the bolt.
Coat the bolt with locktite. It will coat since the bulk of the anti-sieze stays in the piece it gets threaded into.

It works, if you would like I'll take some pictures of the process.

Hey Avenger, thanks for sharing your idea. I have a pretty good idea of what you do based on your explanation.

The thing I don't understand is what is the locktite supposed to lock to if the bolt is already coated with the anti-seize? Is it that it bonds to a couple of places where, by chance, the anti-seize didn't coat? Or are you saying that all the locktite is doing is filling up the minute spaces between the threads of each, hardening, and therefore making it harder for the bolt to come out?

I'm genuinely curious about this so if you have more insight, I'd love to hear it.

Post edited by: Little B, at: 2007/12/04 18:52

I can't wait for the discussion on which anti-sieze (copper or nickel) and which thread lockers are the best. This could get very educational.

I can't wait for the discussion on which anti-sieze (copper or nickel) and which thread lockers are the best. This could get very educational.