Need help with stator rotor

I can't get the rotor off of the crank shaft. I tried the rear axle. I hit it with a hammer. I even put a 10 pound barbell weight over the axle and used it like a slide hammer.

I even had the dealer try it. They heated it with a torch and used an impact with the puller tool. It didn't budge.

It was suggested by a friend to heat the thing up then hit it with freezing spray to seperate the pieces. This seems like a bad idea, but I running out of good ones.

I am wondering if I could cut across the center diameter enough to be able to spread the taper further apart. I just know once I try that, it will never accept a threaded axle again, if it doesn't work.

By the way, the rotor I am removing is bad, so I don't care what happens to it, I just don't want to hurt the crank.

Heat the center of the rotor till it's cherry red then thread the axle in and smack it with a 4 lb hammer, that ought to do it

The OEM tool I bought for th job is just a cross piece with 4 threaded sections. I assume for different models of bike. Never had any trouble like this. Just threaded in and gave end a whack with mallet, not unlike taking off wheel hub nuts. I assume the rear axle has the compatible thread. The rotor is set on a taper. Heat should by rights do the job. Have you tried a heavy duty bearing puller with the 3 jaws and impact gun with heat? Question is why did it stick in first place? Sorry no quick fix from me.

The slide-hammer is about the best approach,I think.I had the same problem last summer,and I ended up borrowing a slide-hammer(dent-puller) from the local body-shop out here...worked like a charm.It took a few good smacks,but it did come off.Extra weight helped too.

DjturnZ, tread carefully, we don't want to damage the crank. I use a 3/8 inch ball and the head-stock bolt. I've found the short bolt delivers more impact to get the stator off. I take it with your model Z there is no key? Be careful with heat, remember it's just the stator-rotor boss we want to heat not the crank end. ........Good luck and regardZ

thanks for the suggestions. I did use a 3 jaw but the rotor is rounded in the back and it wouldn't hold on very well. I am beginning to think the guy screwed me. He said he was selling because he couldn't find the replacement rotor cheap enough. I think he had a shop try to fix it and they couldn't get it off. Oh well, someday I'll ride again. Worst case, I have a good titled bike. Maybe I can find a motor. This sucks.

I bought a propane torch last night. I'm gonna go to tractor supply to see if I can find a 3/8 bearing. What is the bolt size and thread for the axle I am using. I'll see if they have something similar there too.

A propane torch might work if you held it there long enough, but I was talking about a oxy/acetylene torch

The longer you heat it the more heat is transferred to other parts, I think heating it up fast and getting it off there is the best way. Like was stated above, it's mounted on a taper, as soon as you pop the taper loose it will fall off.

I have no access to an oxy torch. Maybe I'll get a bottle of mapp gas. It is at least a little hotter. Does anyone know the thread pitch and bolt size for the rear axle?

Sandy wrote:

The slide-hammer is about the best approach,I think.I had the same problem last summer,and I ended up borrowing a slide-hammer(dent-puller) from the local body-shop out here...worked like a charm.It took a few good smacks,but it did come off.Extra weight helped too.

Where does on go to get a 3/8 bearing. I went to Tractor Supply and they didn't have any balls. Do I want steel? I can buy a pack of 250 steel 3/8 balls online. Is steel too hard? Aluminum? Bronze?

use thebig nut in the center of top triple tree clamp with the ball bearing.goodluck,happy wreching! :whistle:

try a bearing supply house or someplace that works on heavy duty stuff like truck axles and rearends,or tractor mechanic.goodluck,happy wrenching!