KZ550 valve clearances

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KZ550 valve clearances

08 Sep 2007 13:56
#169412
So while fixing my gremlin electrical problems on the 550, I decided to check the vlave clearances on the bike since Im sure they havent ever been adjusted by the previous owners. Well, I can't get my smallest gauge (.005") in any of the intake gaps and only two of the exaust gaps.

So my question is what to do when you have no clearence on these bikes.

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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 09:04
#169770
Ok, so I know understand how the clearance disappears. My new question is, do I have to remove the camshaft to do the valve clearances? The Clymer manual tells me I do, but I have read the wiredgeorge article, which isn't for my engine, but talks about a special tool that keeps me from having to do this. I'm slightly nervous about removing my cams and re timing them properly, how hard is this?

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  • JR
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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 09:10
#169771
If your setup is shim under bucket then you have to remove the cams and then the bucket to get at the shim. If like some bikes you have shim over bucket then you can get the shim out using a special tool. I dont know what the setup on a 550 is.

There's lot of info here on doing the valves and if you try a search or maybe look in the filebase you should find everything you need.
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust

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  • loudhvx
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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 11:45
#169807
The 550 is shim under bucket. The WG article is not valid for the 550. The cams must come out per the manual.

You'll probably want to get a shim kit. If the motor has never been open, the factory shims will be in the 250 (2.5mm) to 260 (2.60mm) range. You'll be able to swap some of the shims around, but you'll probably need a few extra 250, 245, and 240 shims.

The trick is to be organized. Don't mix up the buckets. They should be identical, but sometimes they are not 100% interchangeable. Some will be stiff in the bore. Keep everything squeaky clean!

When re-installing the cams, be very patient and don't force anything. If the cam doesn't want to comply, take it out and start over. It needs to go down gradually and very evenly. Do it in small stages using small turns of the cap screws.

Don't leave the tach gear in. It almost always interferes.

There is a lot of confusion in the manuals about the timing. Pin#1 is just barely above the EX line. The Clymer diagram is wrong. The 79-81 factory manual is right.

Here is a conversion chart you may want to print out.

#200 = 2.00mm = 0.0787in.
#205 = 2.05mm = 0.0807in.
#210 = 2.10mm = 0.0827in.
#215 = 2.15mm = 0.0846in.
#220 = 2.20mm = 0.0866in.
#225 = 2.25mm = 0.0886in.
#230 = 2.30mm = 0.0906in.
#235 = 2.35mm = 0.0925in.
#240 = 2.40mm = 0.0945in.
#245 = 2.45mm = 0.0965in.
#250 = 2.50mm = 0.0984in.
#255 = 2.55mm = 0.1004in.
#260 = 2.60mm = 0.1024in.
#265 = 2.65mm = 0.1043in.
#270 = 2.70mm = 0.1063in.
#275 = 2.75mm = 0.1083in.
#280 = 2.80mm = 0.1102in.
#285 = 2.85mm = 0.1122in.
#290 = 2.90mm = 0.1142in.
#295 = 2.95mm = 0.1161in.
#300 = 3.00mm = 0.1181in.


0.00mm = 0.0000in.
0.01mm = 0.0004in.
0.02mm = 0.0008in.
0.03mm = 0.0012in.
0.04mm = 0.0016in.
0.05mm = 0.0020in.
0.06mm = 0.0024in.
0.07mm = 0.0028in.
0.08mm = 0.0031in.
0.09mm = 0.0035in.
0.10mm = 0.0039in.
0.11mm = 0.0043in.
0.12mm = 0.0047in.
0.13mm = 0.0051in.
0.14mm = 0.0055in.
0.15mm = 0.0059in.
0.16mm = 0.0063in.
0.17mm = 0.0067in.
0.18mm = 0.0071in.
0.19mm = 0.0075in.
0.20mm = 0.0079in.
0.21mm = 0.0083in.
0.22mm = 0.0087in.
0.23mm = 0.0091in.
0.24mm = 0.0094in.
0.25mm = 0.0098in.
0.26mm = 0.0102in.
0.27mm = 0.0106in.
0.28mm = 0.0110in.
0.29mm = 0.0114in.
0.30mm = 0.0118in.
0.31mm = 0.0122in.
0.32mm = 0.0126in.
0.33mm = 0.0130in.
0.34mm = 0.0134in.
0.35mm = 0.0138in.
0.36mm = 0.0142in.
0.37mm = 0.0146in.
0.38mm = 0.0150in.
0.39mm = 0.0154in.
0.40mm = 0.0157in.
0.41mm = 0.0161in.
0.42mm = 0.0165in.
0.43mm = 0.0169in.
0.44mm = 0.0173in.
0.45mm = 0.0177in.
0.46mm = 0.0181in.
0.47mm = 0.0185in.
0.48mm = 0.0189in.
0.49mm = 0.0193in.
0.50mm = 0.0197in.


0.000in. = 0.000mm
0.001in. = 0.025mm
0.002in. = 0.051mm
0.003in. = 0.076mm
0.004in. = 0.102mm
0.005in. = 0.127mm
0.006in. = 0.152mm
0.007in. = 0.178mm
0.008in. = 0.203mm
0.009in. = 0.229mm
0.010in. = 0.254mm
0.011in. = 0.279mm
0.012in. = 0.305mm
0.013in. = 0.330mm
0.014in. = 0.356mm
0.015in. = 0.381mm
0.016in. = 0.406mm
0.017in. = 0.432mm
0.018in. = 0.457mm
0.019in. = 0.483mm

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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 11:47
#169808
The number one pin is here:


Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/09/10 14:47

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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 11:48
#169809
Here's what it looks like with the chain on:
.

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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 11:54
#169812
I added the arrow here.
.

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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 11:57
#169813
Here's a photo from the factory manual.
.

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  • RonKZ650
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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

10 Sep 2007 12:00
#169814
Also unless I misunderstand, you have a .005" feeler as your smallest? You need smaller because .004"-.006" is the approx clearance you want. Kind of hard to judge how close you are to being good if you don't have smaller feelers.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

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  • trojan
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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

31 May 2016 03:14
#729307
What are the exhaust and intake valve clearances fot this engine?

Thanks

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  • SWest
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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

31 May 2016 04:10
#729311
Buy or download a manual.
Steve

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Re: KZ550 valve clearances

31 May 2016 05:39
#729314
for a manual click on <other links> in loudhvx's signature above
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust

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