Break in

Hi

Soon will be the time to break in a new build. Z1 903 block with Joe Hooper 1075 bore and wiseco pistons, fresh 29mm smoothies jetted for the filter pods on the backs. I would like to hear some advice and your opinion on what to do soon as it fires up. I have mercury tubes to syncronise the carbs.

I start the motor,check for leaks,
and let the motor warm up until
it will run with the choke off.
Then I shut it off,and retorque
the head the next day.The first
500 miles I baby it,the next 500
I ride it a little harder,but
I don't redline it or do a bunch
of wheelies.After the 1000 miles
then I redline it and do alot of
wheelies.:lol:

I like this guy.....good advice.

Did you hone the jugs? If so you might want to run it for about 15 minutes at around 2000 rpm. Sync the carbs while you have it running that will take up some of the time so you don't go crazy.

The jugs were professionaly done by Joe Hooper in FLA. Each wiseco piston was of course calibrated for each sleeve. This is good info, thanks guys.

New bike break in procedure for my KZ650C1 was to vary speed but keep it under 5,000 rpm for the first 500 miles; then change oil. I did this and the bike still runs great 30 years later. Ed

I had a friend tell me to run up and down the back country roads where I live and to keep her in no higher than 3rd gear, run about 35mph down to 10mph and back for about the first 100 miles then a little faster till it reached 200 miles. Does that sound right too?

Cars ,bikes........I have done the easy break in and the WFO break in. Seems to be no different. My MKII didn't have an easy break in........and it seems to love being abused. Ride it like a dirt bike. Change the oil though.

Weisco pistons and the rings dont take as long as factory stuff to break in.
I would not baby it but certainly not beat it. Just vary the rpms and dont keep steady on the throttle. for the first 500 miles, and keep the rpms under half of what the redline is. Then for another 500 dont go over 3/4 of what the red line is, and ride it like you would everyday. No full throttles during break-in.

I dont baby a new engine, I would fire it up with a fan blowing on the front of it, check the timing and set it, let it run at about 2000 rpm for about 20 min, shut it off and let it cool down, retorque the head bolts and check everything for leaks and loose bolts.
put it back together and ride it like you are going to everyday

An engine break in is necessary for a new engine where new parts are being used and they are wearing in together. The break-in period is especially necessary for bearings. You have a 30 year old engine and if it isn't broken in by now, it never will be. What you are trying to do is seat rings. This requires you not drive at a constant speed. What speed you drive at isn't important but if you get on the interstate with new rings and drone along at 58 mph, you run the risk of wearing in a pattern. Vary your speed. Trust me, your crank and cam bearings won't know that you have new rings in there bwhahaha I also double torque the cylinder stud nuts before taking it out... This can be done cold before the engine is started. First tighten is using less torque than the second... in your case, 18 ft/lbs first and 25 ft/lbs second torque. Start the engine and run it a couple hundred miles, fix any leaks and change the oil and you will be good to go I suspect.

Thanks for all you guys input and advise, and yesss WG seating the rings, not breaking in the engine, duh, what was I thinking. Anyway, Battery and wire loom going on this weekend and hopefully all you guys advice will come in handy;)