jumped timing chain

NO. should open the advance plates unless you just keep going or they re stuck;) I've been able to open mine with a screwdriver CAREFULLY, with everything still togeter just reach in behind the points plate. Unless they're stuck of course, then you have to take it loose to free em up

Post edited by: jjdwoodman, at: 2007/07/25 10:50

OK, I think I've got the idea. Thanks for all the insight. I'll be toying with it tonight and get back to you all tomorrow. Sure hope to figure it out soon. I'd like to ride before the white stuff flys, and I also want to get to work on my BMW r65 too, but one thing at a time.

Hey SNAKEBYTE, how much for the coils in case I need them?

Patton wrote:

...Strobe type timing light is best to actually see operation of advancer unit.

Hello? Hello? tap-tap-tap Is this thing on? :huh:

Patton wrote:

...Strobe type timing light is best to actually see operation of advancer unit.

Hello? Hello? tap-tap-tap Is this thing on? :huh:

Should be able to see the advancement as I accelerate the engine with the stobe on the plate?

BINJIEU wrote:

Should be able to see the advancement as I accelerate the engine with the stobe on the plate?

Yessir, easy as pie.

Advancer unit should be clean and lubed and freely moving back and forth (against the spring tension).

IMO, strobe timing light is also best method to check/set ignition timing (dynamic method -- with engine running) instead of static method using an ohm meter or light bulb with engine off).

Regardless, should clean and gap points before setting ignition timing.


First priority -- give crankcase oil the "smell" test to help assure it is not being diluted with gasoline.

BINJIEU wrote:

Should be able to see the advancement as I accelerate the engine with the stobe on the plate?

Yessir, easy as pie.

And far easier than avoiding duplicate posts. :lol:

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/07/31 09:53

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/08/02 15:19

Well guys and goyls, here's my most recent disaster.
Took the bike back to the pro who got her running great and he found one of the condenser wires had apparently been rubbed raw and grounded out. A little tape and voila, great running machine once again. . . for about six miles. The damn thing just begins popping and backfiring. Spoke with the guy earlier and he's gonna look at it again. I discussed the carburation, possible advance issues, and even the tank cap possibly being a problem for fuel delivery.He agrees with everything discussed on the forum, but insists there is an ignition issue that needs to be resolved first before adressing the fuel delivery possibilities. I've offered more money, but he insists he'll get it running right.
Suggestions?

Tell you what I own a garage in Cleveland. If you can get it to me I be glad to work on it for $50. If it takes one hour or 2 weeks I'll see what I can find.
I dont see how a wire on the condenser being rubbed through will make it do what it is doing since the condenser is grounded any way. I think you need a different mechanic sounds like he doesnt check his work.:pinch: Thats costing you riding time.

One thing that didnt cross my mind was to check the charging system when it is running bad. Its possible that the stator gives out after getting hot causing lower voltage and we all know what that can do to coils and running.

Was out in Cleveland a couple months ago. Had I owned the bike then, and knew of the issues, I certainly would've tossed it in back of the old pick-up and dragged it out to see you. However, things are as they are. Am still waiting on the results of this visit.
TO BE CONTINUED. . .

Condensers are not grounded, if they were the bike would never run, cause you would not have spark. The condenser is a storage place for extra electricity when the points open to stop arching at the points. If the wire wore through it would ground out on the coil side never collapsing the field and no spark. I would highly recommend an electronic ignition either dyna or stock Kawasaki, and a coil relay.