clutch not disengaging?

Yes,for peace of mind Bud...good call...something doesn't sound right and as far as I can tell,You've pretty much covered all the bases.
Post Your findings,Brich,and more pics as You pull the clutch apart.

Brich,I just edited an earlier post btw.
The order of plates in the clutch...start off with a friction plate and end with a friction plate(not the other way around like I had originally posted)
Like I said...I'm tired.:huh: :silly:

Lets see if I have this right ,
from what I read in these posts ,
when you want to "GO" the clutch will NOT fully engage.
Like slips ?

And when you back off the adjuster under the cover twice what the book says , it "DRAGS" ?

You think the guys who put it together did it right ?

How old is your cable ? It sounds like it might be "cooked" inside .

Try taking the cable off and lubing it (you know duct tape and chain lube)

When you put it back together back OFF ALL the adjusters .

Pull the rod out from the sprocket side and make sure its not bent or burned on the end.

Then just put it back together making your adjustments from the bottom and working your way up .

Sandy .. got it on the plates! Will do, i am taking it all apart and putting back together just to leave no stone unturned.

MDawn .. when i want to go the clutch will not disengage. When i rev it moves a bit but barely. I backed off the adjuster some more and it moves slightly more .. but still acts is the clutch is mostly pulled in.

The cable is old as dirt, but lubed well. I want to order a new one anyway cause it is too long with my low bars. Just don't know where to find a shorter one.

Im not sold on the cable being the problem casue i got plenty of slack before i get clutch pull. It just feele like the clutch is pulled in before the cable actually meets and resistance and pulls.

I'll post more pics later tonight after pulling out the plates .. got to go mow the lawn first!!

brich wrote:

I want to order a new one anyway cause it is too long with my low bars. Just don't know where to find a shorter one.

Order one from a Z1R. It should be the right length to work with you lower bars. Jeff @ Z1E probably has those in stock.

Later, Doug

awesome!! im on that right now!! Big help man .. i hate thinking my cables are too long and getting scrunched.

-brian

hey brian, your clutch adjuster looks like mine. Are you sure you have the ball bearing plate installed. I'm talking about #92045 I know they are easy to loose/overlook...it almost happened to me.


ron

Post edited by: ronjones, at: 2007/06/21 22:22

Bwahahaha... just went through this aggravation today myself. Here is what you need to do...

First, install the clutch cable making dead sure that the cable end seats in the hole in the bracket down near the countershaft sprocket. Put the spring between the bracket and clutch pivot arm. Put the clutch cable tip into the clutch pivot arm and INSTALL A COTTER PIN... note the small hole. If you don't it will eventually jump out and you will be clutchless.

Second. put the handlebar end into the lever and put about 5mm between the adjuster and locking wheel thing. Then turn the adjuster so there is plenty of slack in the cable... the mid-point adjuster. Turn it so it moves DOWN toward the other 1/2 of the cable.

Third... loosen 13mm locknut on clutch pivot mechanism... the adjuster locknut. Turn the screw OUT a couple turns... then turn it in till it gets tight. Then turn out a half turn. YOU MUST TURN IT OUT FIRST... then take the slack out at the mid-adjust point. Screw the barrel up away from the bottom part and tighten the locknut under it.

Fourth... move the adjuster on the switchgear in about 2mm towards the wheel thing and tighten.

OK.... at this point, the rear wheel will still turn some. YOUR CLUTCH PLATES ARE STICKING TOGETHER SOME FROM HYDROSTATIC TENSION. Your clutch lever pulls hard because the APE springs are REAL STOUT! I use the weakest old worn springs I can get away with to reduce lever effort. Live with the pain now that you are in HEAVY DUTY land hehe... anyway, take a 13mm wrench and a flat blade screwdriver... back the bike out and go for a ride... you can adjust the screw just a tad; in or out, if the clutch isn't just right but I bet you have it and don't know it...

Viola .. the old girl moves!!! :woohoo:

Wish i read this first though george!

I removed the entire new clutch and and measured every d@mn piece of it with the veniers and manual. Springs were fine, friction plates were all off .6 - .8mm and that freaked me for a second. Then i realized the manual referenced 15 plates(8 frict) and i had 17 plates (9 friction). So i did the math and wasn't so worried....

I meticulously adjusted the clutch per the manual, starting with mid adj all the way in, handlbar adj out 1/4in. turned the clutch pivot mech screm out 4 turns, in till starting to get tight, out half turn, tighted. took all of slack out of lever with mid adj, then gave back 1/8in slack with the lever adj.

Fired her up, woke up my neighbors (townhouse), and drove her from end of the garage to next! 15ft .. her first maiden voyage!! I felt like i should have smashed a bottle of champipple on her front fender before it did! Oh and since my wife got pregnant my clutch wrist somehow got a LOT stronger, so i good with the "Heavy Duty"!

SO i assume the problem was somewhere in all that. I don't want to admit it was probably in the adjustment cause I am afraid Sandy will kill me for having him up thinking all night! :whistle:

oh and let me apologize to MDawn and all for improperly naming this post. I had my logic backwards. I thought "disengaging" was when clutch lever was not pulled and you could drive. Reading the manual i saw that meant the clutch was "engaged". A "disengaged" clutch is when you are actually using it.

I mean i get it after reading how a clutch works just now, but you can see how a guy could get it backwards right? .... ummm ...right? :pinch:

I apologize if that lead to confusion for you all and thanks again to everyone for their help!

- brian

brich wrote:

SO i assume the problem was somewhere in all that. I don't want to admit it was probably in the adjustment cause I am afraid Sandy will kill me for having him up thinking all night! :whistle:

LOL...it's all good Brian...just glad You got it figured out Bud!
And hey...if nothing else...now You know more about Your clutch,and the whole operation of it all...right?
Nothing wrong with an easy fix,but there's also nothing wrong with getting Your hands all oily,and understanding Your bike even more.
Right on Bud...excellent!:woohoo:

True on all accounts Sandy!

Wanna know the sad thing .. i went to the American Motorcycle Institute (AMI) in Florida 17 years ago for a 6 month bike mechanics course. I worked on bikes in a shop for 2 weeks before they made me the seadoo jetski mechaninc. Did that for 6 months before I went into computer world.

Needless to say .. i forgot more then i remember, but I am more then happy to tear things apart and relearn.

Post edited by: brich, at: 2007/06/22 00:31