red loctite on cam bolts?

So, is the fact that it has been so cold a factor in wether my cap bolts will loosen? Do I need to wait until the temps have warmed up to be satisfied that the torqued bolts will hold? OR can I finish putting her together so I can fire her up??? She's in an unheated attached garage, temps have been 20's-40's
Hungry minds need to know:):huh:
Thanks

put her together,engine heating and cooling is what makes a differance air temp aint gonna make a drastic differance;)

Cam cap bolts will never come loose becauses there's constant tension on them. Tighten to 5-8 ft-lb and they will be set forever. No need to overtorque or worry about these ever coming loose because trust me they wont.

Just remember that torque values (not just the cam cap bolts) are based on a dry fit. Anytime you add any type of lubricant, your recommended torque values don't apply anymore. As an example:




Anytime I torque anything that is coated, I usually reduce the value by 10-15%. The larger the bolt, the higher the reduction. Hope this helps.

wireman wrote:

put her together,engine heating and cooling is what makes a differance air temp aint gonna make a drastic differance;)

Thanks wireman, that was the piece if info I needed:). Hear so much about heating and cooling loosening torque. Just a bit paranoid

RonKZ650 wrote:

Cam cap bolts will never come loose becauses there's constant tension on them. Tighten to 5-8 ft-lb and they will be set forever. No need to overtorque or worry about these ever coming loose because trust me they wont.

Thanks also for that bit of reassurance, Ron. Got them torqued at 110in/lbs (spec 95-113in/lbs) I don't know what that is in ft/lbs. Even if they slip a bit, they should stay in spec.

Thanks also, dkmk, I did put some anti-sieze on them. I noticed most got washed out w/the oil, I coated everything with, when I tightened the bolts. With wireman and Ron's comments, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be in good shape.

Sorry, for the hand-holding but after doing this once, I don't want to have to go back in again, for awhile.
Thanks again, everyone...
I'm almost done:woohoo:
I hope I got those quote things right:huh:

just divide your inch lbs by 12 and that should give you ft lbs so you should be just over 9 ft lbs

wireman wrote:

just divide your inch lbs by 12 and that should give you ft lbs so you should be just over 9 ft lbs

Got it...they are tight enough... don't mess w/it anymore!!!

Tomorrow, valve cover, cam chain tension adjustment, install Dyna coil:) and...:woohoo:
Oops, tomorrows' Easter, family stuff...dang:(...well, Monday:)
Thanks again, all

Duck wrote:

1) Chase threads to a turn more than length of cap bolt beyond cap.
2) NO THREADLOCK! NO NO NO There is very little clearance between the cover and the bolts and it will keep them from backing out and you'll hear it if they get loose.
3) I'm using anti-seize but didn't see anything in the manual about it.
4) Clamp cam in place before installing caps or at least, install the bolts that will have most of their threads engaged FIRST until they start to pull the camshaft down a little. Put the others in but if you don't have at least 3 good turns, don't go much beyond finger tight.

-Duck

Thanks for the tips, Duck. My FSM didn't say anything about anti-sieze, either, but it did say to soak the parts in clean oil. The oil seemed to wash out the anti-S, on tightening, so it seems to be a moot point. I used the tightening pattern, in my FSM. I just didn't go torqueing them tight on the first go round but kind of "walked" them in slowly. Finger tight, then snug then torque to spec, then recheck. Seemed to work:).
Thanks
Ron