red loctite on cam bolts?

Did I read somewhere here that it is advisable to put anti-sieze on the lower theads of the cam bolts and red loctite on the upper threads?
Thanks
Ron

are you talking about the cap bolts?
if so I would not put either on them, I would be using some high pressure assembly lube on the bolts,
anti sieze will not let the bolts tighten properly, locktite on the other hand will make it hard to take back apart without causing damage

Well, you might find some disagreement amongst members, but I wouldn't use any Loctite on camcap bolts. The KHI manual doesn't recommend any loctite-type product for camcap bolts.

NO!

OK, cool, I thought I read a thread about striping cam threads and it was recommended to use anti-sieze because of stainless bolts going into aluminum heads and the loctite to keep them seated. I guess I was mistaken. I've got my cams back in. Cap bolts torqued to 100 in/lbs (spec 95-113). Should I give it a little time then retorque or can I close it up?
Thanks again

BSKZ650 wrote:

are you talking about the cap bolts?
if so I would not put either on them, I would be using some high pressure assembly lube on the bolts,
anti sieze will not let the bolts tighten properly, locktite on the other hand will make it hard to take back apart without causing damage

Actually, all anti-seize products I've used ARE lubricant-based. In fact, the tube I'm using right now says it's an "anti-seize lubricant". I can't imagine assembling an aluminum engine without it. Now, if you're using SS bolts it's best to use a non-copper base (just look at the color- it'll be either copper colored or silver) but that's not as critical as not using any. I haven't always been a preacher, remember?

yes they are lubricant based, but they are designed to keep things from gaulding, I do use anti sieze , copper type , on the spark plugs.
I use several types of lubes and sealers when I build engines

Ok, guys, thanks for the replies. After getting the cams on and torquing the bolts, I tried rotating it, to check shim clearance. Something was stuck. Removed the cams again, figued out what was wrong. Put them back together, again. Engine rotated well. Checked valve clearances. Had 2 shims in wrong place. Took cams off again, switched shims. Put cams back together. Torqued cap bolts, waited a bit, retorqued... a couple broke free on retorque, now all are around 110in/lbs. Liquid gasket on cam plugs and put the valve cover back on. Snugged down the bolts but haven't torqued them to specs. Temps have been pretty cold here, the last few days. Does anyone have any thoughts on wether I should finish torqueing the valve cover to spec or would it be a good idea to let the bike set overnight and retorque the cap bolts? I'm a bit worried about the expansion differential between the stainless steel bolts and aluminum head. I don't really want to put everything back together and then have to take it back apart to retighten the cap bolts.
Thanks

the bolts shouldnt be stainless unless you installed them,stainless bolts actually arent that strong.id definately use anti seize on any bolt going into aluminum

wireman wrote:

the bolts shouldnt be stainless unless you installed them,stainless bolts actually arent that strong.id definately use anti seize on any bolt going into aluminum

Nope, they are stock. I ass-u-me-ed they were stainless :blush: So, what are they?just steel?

yeah just shiny zinc plating;)

1) Chase threads to a turn more than length of cap bolt beyond cap.
2) NO THREADLOCK! NO NO NO There is very little clearance between the cover and the bolts and it will keep them from backing out and you'll hear it if they get loose.
3) I'm using anti-seize but didn't see anything in the manual about it.
4) Clamp cam in place before installing caps or at least, install the bolts that will have most of their threads engaged FIRST until they start to pull the camshaft down a little. Put the others in but if you don't have at least 3 good turns, don't go much beyond finger tight.

-Duck