Valve adjustment advice

Ok, I got my valve readings and am ready to order my shims. However, while rotating the engine I think the cam chain may have slipped. Is this possible? I was turning it over with my wrench and the chain rode up on top of the gears on the front cam. I didn't think the cam would have turned more forward on its on so I put light pressure on the chain in the middle and it went back into the notches.
Is there a way for me to easily check it? I'd rather be sure it's good than to find out later that it's off. :S

Did you loosen the cam bolts or anything? Is your cam chain tensioner functioning correctly? If the chain came off the sprockets just from you turning the crank, then you have bigger problems than the valve lash (shims) being incorrect.

The manual says to remove the valve tensioner cap and spring before removing the valve cover to adjust the valve shims. When the tensioner is on, it seems to work fine. And yes, the cam bolts are properly tightened. I'm following the book just like it says.

From experience I'v found you really need 1)feeler gauge that has .0015, and .0025, 2)micrometer.. Sometimes the shims can be off by almost .001.. I have found that two shims with same marking to be a different size. If you get shims from a salvage place also check the diameter as there are some that look and feel right but are a tad too large and won't fit in the cup. I always check the shims I'm taking out and putting in with the micrometer. With stock cams it doesn't seem to matter if when you check clearance the valve lobe is straight up or opposite the valve stem. If you have shims with no markings an example is 270 is equal to .106.. Markings go by 5 ie:270 - 275, but are really .002 ie;.106 -.108... always have the markings down in the cup away from the cam lobes as the cam will wear away the marking. TFH

pidaster - Put your bike year/model as well as location in your signature by editing it within your profile. I can't imagine which shop manual you are using that would advise to remove the chain tensioner prior to removing the valve cover. I don't think it would be necessary to remove the tensioner to measure clearance between the bucket or shim and the cam lobe. I suggest redo the cam chain timing and put the tensioner back in place then measure valve clearance (lash).

Ok, I read the manual again and it doesn't say to remove the tensioner cap for valve adjustment. I had read ahead to removing the head for valve replacement. My bad. I need to take more time with this project.

Now that it's done, it shouldn't be a huge deal to get the timing set right. Just follow the procedure of setting the crank in tdc and making sure you have the cam gears aligned correct and the right amount of links between them etc. It's in the manual as well. Someone in your area might be able to help you if you're freaked out by it...

Got my valve shims in and good clearance's all around. Need to adjust the carbs now. I read in the repair manual again and it does say to remove the cam tensioner cap before removing the valve cover. I knew I read that somewhere.

Hello Jeff,
Ted Ashby here in Canada. I am slowly going through my 13,000 km 1978 Z1R and checked the valve clearance today and they are betwwen .005 and .007 with most of them at .006 in. the bike has sit for over 25 years but runs smooth now that i have serviced it. M question to you is should I change the shims to bring it within spec or let it alone for a bit until I put some miles on it? I am thinking leave it alone. I will wait until I hear from you to do what is next. Thanks.

another pic

Beeeeeeeeeeautiful bike! Ed

The A means nothing. 270, that's good. You have a lot of wiggle room left. I'm buying my shims from jetsrus. Z1 didn't have them the last time I checked. I'd get 265's/4, 260's/4 and maybe a 255 and a 250 just to have on hand. It's good to have an assortment, depending on how much you can afford of course.
Steve