valve shim tool

Still working on getting my new-to-me kz1000 shaftie fixed up. I figure I ought to check/adjust the valve clearances before I start her up since I need to pull the valve cover anyway. From what I've read, I assume I need a tool of some sort. Would either of these ( tool1 , tool2 ) do the job? I like cheap, so tool1 sounds good, but tool2 looks awful cool.

Edit ... fixed the link so that 'tool1' is the 'batwing' tool ... sorry 'bout the confusion.

Post edited by: rckz, at: 2007/03/02 08:43

You need a special tool to change valve shims, but not to check valve clearances. Although both your links lead to the same tool, I am assuming that the other tool is the 'bat wing' w/lever assembly. I have both but I keep returning to the Kawasaki tool (more $ tool) when I swap shims. You'll note that the shop manual calls for the original kawasaki tool...not the 'bat wing'. Once you get the hang of the Kawasaki tools' nuances, it is very simple to use. BUT FIRST, check your clearances to see if you even need to buy either special tool!

I completely agree with McDroid. I will only add this: The cheap tool (under $10) works, but requires a bit of muscle from you. You have to cram the one part between the shim and the valve, against the resistance of the spring. When the clearance is tight, this is not easy. When the clearance is excessive, it's a piece of cake - but you would more likely be removing a shim under tight clearance... I use the cheap tool...

Also, it looks like your two links (to tool1 and tool2) both point to what you describe as the "tool2", but I know what you meant...

The tool pictured in both links is a genuine Kaw tool. It is purpose built. See the "valve clearances" how-to on our web site. It describes how this tool is used. We also have the "batwing" tool. This is a Motion Pro tool and while it works, is not very user friendly. The Kaw tool, when put in place, only requires the cam to be rolled over to hold the bucket in place. The Motion Pro tool requires physically prying with a little pry bar and then setting the "batwing" part in place on the edge of the bucket. If you practice, you can set this piece one time out of three (IF you are good and have good eyes). While it is possible to change shims using this tool, if you are serious about owning a KZ, the genuine Kaw tool that Z1Enterprises sells is a MUST HAVE.

wiredgeorge wrote:

See the "valve clearances" how-to on our web site.

Forgive me for asking, but where is that? I tried searching the filebase and saw a few articles related to valve spring compressor tools, valve clearance spreadsheets, etc, but no 'how-to'. Maybe I'm just blind.

easiest way to find anything on this site is to go to the site map (link to your right, below "who's online".

rckz wrote:

wiredgeorge wrote:

See the "valve clearances" how-to on our web site.

Forgive me for asking, but where is that? I tried searching the filebase and saw a few articles related to valve spring compressor tools, valve clearance spreadsheets, etc, but no 'how-to'. Maybe I'm just blind.

Wiredgeorge is talking about his website .

I'm surprised the better tool is available. I'd buy it. That was the original Kawasaki tool, then somewhere along the road they changed to the cheaper picture 1 type tool. I tried to buy the better tool clear back in 1981 and could only get the cheap tool through Kawasaki, told the original was no longer available.

I use the cheap tool, and it works fine, once you get the hang of it. It does take some muscle to wedge the pry tool in, and it may give you carpal tunnel syndrome, but with a 600% difference in price, I'll take my chances with the cheap tool. :whistle:

I use the batwing tool. I used to try to pry the bucket down by wedging the little prybar thingy between the shim and the cam lobe BUT NOW....I rotate the cam shaft so the lobe opens the valve, then slide the batwing in beside the cam lobe, between the cam shaft, rough cast part, and the edge of the bucket.

If, once the batwing is in place, you continue to rotate the cam shaft, holding the batwing steady, the lobe will move away from the shim but the batwing will continue to hold the bucket down.

Works for me. Anyone else do this?

BARNEYHYPHEN wrote:

I use the batwing tool. I used to try to pry the bucket down by wedging the little prybar thingy between the shim and the cam lobe BUT NOW....I rotate the cam shaft so the lobe opens the valve, then slide the batwing in beside the cam lobe, between the cam shaft, rough cast part, and the edge of the bucket.

If, once the batwing is in place, you continue to rotate the cam shaft, holding the batwing steady, the lobe will move away from the shim but the batwing will continue to hold the bucket down.

Works for me. Anyone else do this?

Yep -- slick as a whistle -- here's how:
bat only

rckz wrote:

wiredgeorge wrote:

See the "valve clearances" how-to on our web site.

Forgive me for asking, but where is that? I tried searching the filebase and saw a few articles related to valve spring compressor tools, valve clearance spreadsheets, etc, but no 'how-to'. Maybe I'm just blind.

Actually, there's one on KZR
How to set valve clearances
It's written by Wired George, so it's prolly the same as what's on his website.