valve shim tool

BARNEYHYPHEN wrote:

I use the batwing tool. I used to try to pry the bucket down by wedging the little prybar thingy between the shim and the cam lobe BUT NOW....I rotate the cam shaft so the lobe opens the valve, then slide the batwing in beside the cam lobe, between the cam shaft, rough cast part, and the edge of the bucket.

If, once the batwing is in place, you continue to rotate the cam shaft, holding the batwing steady, the lobe will move away from the shim but the batwing will continue to hold the bucket down.

Works for me. Anyone else do this?

Yeah, I did that a couple times. The friction of the cam turning kept wanting to pull the batwing out of place, so I went back to the original method.

www.wgcarbs.com/269767.html

The Kaw tool is pictured in use plus there is an explanation of how to check clearances and then adjust clearances. The article has been cleaned up and some of it rewritten and will be available on our new web site which should be showing next week. The link will be different. On the new site, still wgcarbs.com you will go to wg's tech stuff index and find the Valve Clearance article in that index.

As far as using the Motion Pro (batwing), they don't recommend rolling the cams back onto the batwing as they are likely afraid you will do damage if you get too enthusiastic rolling the cam back onto the thing. Actually, rolling the cam, as described is the only way to use the tool as the pry doo-hickey is a piece of junk.

of the 2 tools pictured #2 is the closest to what is pictured in my FSM. Looking at the shop manuel I understand how #2 works. I really can't picture how #1 would work.

I have found that removing cams is easy, that tool also can damage head easily, which is why is i remove cams, with air it can be done in 15 min unless you only
have to replace one or two shims