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electrolysis removes rust! (dunno about hair)
- pstrbrc
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- '81 GPz 1100 project
\'81 GPz 1100 project
Elkhart, Kansas USA
\"Man does not control his own fate. The women in his life do that for him.\" Groucho Marx
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- indykaw77
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Kawasaki Motorcycles...because cars lean th wrong way!
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- pstrbrc
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Whoa! Be patient. Tell you what. Give me a week playing with it, then I'll write a tech paper and post it with all the details, pictures, drawings, everything. I just want to find out how far I can push this before I start telling you how I did it. However, if anybody really wants to get started on this on their own, a couple of notes:What kinda battery charger?? L'il table-top thing or big-on-wheels-starts-cars kind? Do you have to suspend the to be cleaned parts, or just lay them down in container?? Sorry folks....chemistry AINT my strongest suit!:blink: :blush:
1. I'm using a cheap $30 WalMart charger.
2. DON'T USE STAINLESS STEEL for your electrode. A couple of the websites tell you to use this, but you WILL make your waste water toxic with chromium with ss.
\'81 GPz 1100 project
Elkhart, Kansas USA
\"Man does not control his own fate. The women in his life do that for him.\" Groucho Marx
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- riverroad
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- 1980 1000LTD B4
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From what I remember, you want to make sure you don't hook up the leads the wrong way, because the part you are trying to clean will be damaged or destroyed. It will become the "sacrificial anode". Also, you want to hang your part on some wire because if you let the battery clip get into the solution, it will be destroyed.
I've also heard of people cleaning the rust from their gas tanks this way. They'll insulate the ends of a piece of rebar or something, so it doesn't contact the tank while it's inside it.
I also read that it helps for the surface you're trying to clean to be facing the anode, so you'll want to be able to turn the part around in the tank.
This is the technique museums use to clean up iron artifacts.
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- tganek
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indykaw77 wrote:
Whoa! Be patient. Tell you what. Give me a week playing with it, then I'll write a tech paperWhat kinda battery charger?? L'il table-top thing or big-on-wheels-starts-cars kind? Do you have to suspend the to be cleaned parts, or just lay them down in container?? Sorry folks....chemistry AINT my strongest suit!:blink: :blush:
Or just click on the link previously provided.
It's red. and says "rust sucks".
it looks kind of like this
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- Skyman
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- 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD 1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR
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So I found one for $20 on EBay, knowing that it has a lot of rust on the inside.
What I thought I would do is to fill the tank with the soda solution, then get two long iron rods that I would bend into an "L" shape and insert down the long axis of the tank, one rod on each side. I would then get a 2" rubber plug and drill three holes in it. One for each of the rods, and a third vent hole. They would be held in place by the rubber plug.
Before hooking up the battery charger, I would use my multimeter to make sure that I do not have full continuity (connection) between the tank and the rods. Then I will attach the neg lead to the outside of the tank and the pos lead to the rods. I will use a vinyl tube in the vent hole to vent to the outside, so I can safely do this in the garage and leave it overnight.
For anyone that has done this before, does this seem like a good plan? Any other tips?
West Linn, OR
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- pstrbrc
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I'd think that using the rubber plug in the fill neck entirely for positioning the rods might be iffy. Maybe put a rubber plug/bushing on the end of each rod? Just a thought.
\'81 GPz 1100 project
Elkhart, Kansas USA
\"Man does not control his own fate. The women in his life do that for him.\" Groucho Marx
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- Patton
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I am thinking about doing this on a cheap tank I picked up on EBay... knowing that it has a lot of rust on the inside.... Any other tips?
Try this
twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- vipex
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Skyman wrote:
I am thinking about doing this on a cheap tank I picked up on EBay... knowing that it has a lot of rust on the inside.... Any other tips?
Try this
twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html
one of the best ways for removing rust inside a tank is by using phosphoric acid. It removes the rust and coats the inside of the tank with iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is rust resistant so it has a double benefit. Far better than electrolysis - but there is some cost involved and the tank will need to 'soak' for a week or more to do a perfect job - so dont be in a hurry.
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- beardking
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one of the best ways for removing rust inside a tank is by using phosphoric acid. It removes the rust and coats the inside of the tank with iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is rust resistant so it has a double benefit. Far better than electrolysis - but there is some cost involved and the tank will need to 'soak' for a week or more to do a perfect job - so dont be in a hurry.[/quote]
Where would one get phosphoric acid? What "name brand" should I be looking for?
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- H1Vindicator
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