'81 GPz 550 oil leak at head gasket

My '81 GPz 550 has developed an oil leak that seems to be coming from the head gasket. It hasn't lost any performance and compression is still good. Do I need to replace the head gasket? To my knowledge the gasket is the original.

While I'm working on the engine, I figure that I might as well get the valves done. Also what about the Wiseco (sp?) 615 kit? Has anybody installed this on their 550? Would I have to re-jet my carbs?

Any advice and/or comments will be appreciated.

You do not mention how much it is leaking.... it's a major job and oosts significant dollars to do a big-bore kit.

My 82 KZ1000 LTD just developed an oil leak on the right side of the cylinder head. It leaked enough to show oil, and sprayed back just a little on my chaps. I retorqued the cylinder head and it stopped.

If you try this, the engine must be cold. My engine torque spec is 31 poinds. I had one or two that moved a little bit. You do not want to loosen anything - just try and tighten them to specs. I used a clicker-type torque wrench.

Good luck

FloridaMBA

I second Floridamba's cure for that. the same thing happened to me and I torgued the head and it was cured for sure. don't worry about a tear down!

If it's leaking from the sides, it's the o-rings. If it's leaking from the base, then it's more involved, and rings, and cylinder honing should be in the plans too. Yes 615cc kits have been installed, just depends on what your wallet can handle. Pod filters rejetting, and a good 4-1 exhaust would be the recommended first step.

Oil leak might slow down with head retorque, but on a 28 year old engine, and 17 ft lbs recommended torque, once it starts...

Escaping oil usually migrates, so the exact source is difficult to identify. And sometimes the head gasket is incorrectly blamed. But certainly won't hurt to re-torque when cold, as already suggested.

Would then look for:
Valve cover leaks (gasket and half-moons);
Loose exhaust clamp (or poor gasket seal);
Tach fitting leak (o-ring between case and head, inner seal around shaft, seal at knurled fitting connection where tach cable attaches).

Easiest if engine is first cleaned and blow-dried. Then crank it up and sit there real close with a flashlight -- you know, like CSI.

Good Luck!