Who has KZ1000E (shaft) service manual?

In a different thread car5car stated "I use cheapest oil from Walmart for all my cars and bikes.."

In this thread he stated his clutch is experiencing "minor slipping."

Using oil in a KZ that is not intended for use in bikes that have wet clutches can definitely cause clutch slippage. If the cheapest oil from Walmart is not JASO-MA compliant it most likely is contributing, if not the total cause of, the clutch slippage. The wrong oil will cause such slippage even though the clutch plate thicknesses are well within spec. Been there. done that, using Castrol GTX oil. It may be possible to mask the problem with heavy duty springs, but that would not be the approach I would recommend. Ed

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

650ed wrote: It does exist. There's a manual or supplement for every model. Here's one for the KZ1000 Shaft. Ed

I can see why one wouldn't want to buy it at $120 if cheap oil is all that's used.
I miss my GTX but I can change my oil twice at the same price using Rotilla. Adjusted my valves, nice and clean inside.
Steve

650ed wrote: In a different thread car5car stated "I use cheapest oil from Walmart for all my cars and bikes.."

When I bought my first bike 10 years ago I searched internet, manuals and forums about oil. Conclusion was to use cheap oil because it doesn't "energy conserving" stamp on it. "Energy conserving" means that oil has additives making clutch disks slip.
Last few years I never checked if oil I use for bikes has "energy conserving"
stamp on a bottle. Another important thing from many owner manuals was to use oil with letters SG, SH,(I think) not SL, SM.
SL/SM oils have "slipping" additive.
I just found about 10 Owners manuals for different bikes, I'll check them all and let you know,

After a quick perusal of the wallyworld website, their house brand seems to be cheapest, and it does have the energy consecration logo

pqiamerica.com/SupertechApril2010.htm#supertech

No 10W40 oil is energy conserving. Only the thin weights like 0Wxx, 5Wxx and 10w30 can be energy conserving. Even though this is the case, I would go to Rotella or a motorcycle specific oil. Valvoline 10W40 is only $4 a quart. Not worth trying to save a few dollars on oil.

There have been significant and on-going changes to engine oil over the last 20 years or so.
While most diesel-specific oils seem to be compatible for now, the safest bet is motorcycle specific (4 stroke, wet clutch) formulas, especially those displaying the JASO-MA certification.
Yes, they tend to cost more, but how many times per year do you really change it?

Agree! Oils that are marked "JASO-MA" are safe for wet clutches. Other oils may be energy conserving; may have friction modifiers; may have too high levels of moly; may have insufficient ZDDP for KZ cams; may - etc, etc. Considering the relatively low cost of JASO-MA compliant oil compared to cost of replacing the clutch, buying the gasket, etc., it seems like using oil that is engineered to be safe in wet clutches should be an obvious choice. The difference in cost is less than the cost of filling the fuel tank once and far less than the price of replacing the clutch. Ed