1981 GPz1100 - For Sale Prices?

Posting this here, because I am considering selling my bike this year. However, I am unsure what the asking price should be. I would welcome legit feedback on the question of the asking price.

The bike is in very good condition. Pretty much unmolested too. Still has functioning EFI system on it.

I bought it from the original owner when it had around 16,000 miles on it, and it currently has a little over 20,000 miles on it.

The factory exhaust was removed by the original owner, and a Kerker was put on it. All of the factory exhaust pieces were wrapped up and protected well. I have them.

Bike came with the optional Kawasaki bikini faring, but that was removed by me, and is in a box.

Things that I have done:

Cleaned out fuel tank with Rustol (Sudco product) due to rust causing grief to the EFI system.

Full Dynatek ignition system. Still have all OEM parts.

Went through brake systems, and installed EBC HH pads, and Galfer stainless steel braided lines. I still have all OEM parts.

Upgraded the old glass fuses to mini-blade type. I still have old fuse panel and with connector on its end. I didn't do a botch job on it, and it would be easy to return to the original fuse panel.

K&N air filter. Still have original.

Extras:

Factory owner's manual, and factory service manual.

Extra set of brake rotors

Extra parts for EFI: injectors, wiring harness, air flow meters (two), ECU (two), new idle switch, fuel pump, and maybe more.

Extra set of OEM handlebars.

Set of new OEM mirrors, grips and levers.

Extra set of used foot pegs.

More of the above, but I think I covered the major items.

I've seen some of these bikes come and go for sale on Ebay, and fetch a decent price. However, I have never sold a bike on Ebay, and it looks a little daunting, but perhaps someone here has sold a bike that way, and can offer some advice.

I would like to see the whole package go to someone who is keen on these bikes, and would like to restore it. I don't think that it would take a whole lot to do so either.

Thanks in advance for your feedback, and help.

In UK all air cooled GPz is 'collectable' now, twin shocks more than unis, 1100's being worth about double or triple what a 550 or 750. Shafts and Ltd less, followed by GPz11 and z1000j with z1000R worth maybe 50 percent more. Rarest are z1000R1 and z1100R.

I've sold bikes on ebay -do a classified ad. Fixed price, cash no payal with a really thorough description and lots of good photos. I do a phone number and a note that messages and sms texts won't be responded to...if you have a $/£/euro for the phone call it is a good start I think, otherwise expect quite a few dreamers, scammers and silly offers.

Finally, get it all back to standard as much as you can if you want top dollar. I'd also be more precise about exactly what 'restoration' it needs - there is a lot of 'mutton dressed as lamb' in 30 plus years old bikes, and a big difference between really nice and pretty good.

There are many factors that influence the sale of so-called collectable motorcycles. Location, what season it is offered (spring, winter, etc.), history of the motorcycle, history of the 'myths' that are associated with the model (FI woes, engine longevity, etc.),and so on.... As was pointed out by Tyrell, the twin-shock GPz1100's are more collectable that the monoshock models and the smaller displacement models. However, this doesn't always directly translate into actual dollars when you sell the motorcycle (due to the above factors). One of the biggest mistakes owners do when 'personalizing' their bikes is to change (albeit temporarily) the motorcycle and NOT save the OEM parts. You have done everything correct and have all the parts to return the bike to completely stock (= it's most valuable state). I suspect, from your description, that the bike is almost stock now...this is a huge plus. You might consider reinstalling the K46000-153 fairing as running bikes with that fairing in place are fairly rare. All your upgrades are acceptable and should not bother the next owner nor detract from the asking price.

EBay is always a crap-shoot when selling...it takes at least two motivated buyers each willing to pay the additional shipping costs to generate a decent auction. Sometimes it takes a number of reposts for that to happen. The upside is that your audience is literally the entire planet...and with these twin-shock GPz's becoming increasingly rarer, this is huge. CraigsList is an option but anyone can come in and cancel your posting because they don't like you.

As for price...I have seen 1981 GPz1100's go for about $4000+, but usually less than that...I am also aware of a superior 1982 GPz1100 that went for $8000...the overall problem being that you can still find both those models for fairly 'cheap'. For example I picked my 1982 1100 up for $1400 and that is the dollar figure folks will remember (never mind that mine wasn't running and I have thrown another $3000 at it). Aim high with your price and sell your bike stressing how close to stock it is.

Like to see a pic of the bike. Yes eBay is a crap shoot. Lots of tire kickers and dreamers/scammers out there. Bare in mind the bidding is not binding. Beware of the bidding going up to the max, then staying there. Check out the bidders, set the limits of the bidders, AKA how many unpaid points they have, (mine is set at 2, the lowest), feedback score for them and others, ask them if they want to buy it now, generally they will back off and you can cancel their bids and save another re listing fee. It's a game to them and I'm convinced there are a lot of losers out there that have nothing better to do than try to F up someone's day. I set a $500 non refundable deposit with the balance due on pick up in cash. If they insist on paying by check, make sure its on a major bank certified and take it to that bank, cash it, then move on with the sale. DO NOT DEPOSIT IT IN YOUR BANK. eBay has a nasty habit of closing the auction when a buyer reports a sale. He can back out at any time but if he has $500 on the line, chances are he won't. He may ask for his money back, (I just sold the Vette and 20 minutes later he wanted his money back from Pay Pal, I said no, a deal is a deal.) I use the buy it now or best offer option. At $50-65 a pop selling can be a night mare and expensive if you don't stay on it. The sellers have a saying, views are just that, watchers are the same, buyers are buyers only if they pay. Craigs list can be dangerous and there are a lot of "craigflakes". Lots of low ballers, help you sell, trades, e-mail scams and send you a bigger check, pay my shipper scams.
I agree with what has been suggested above. This is just what I've learned also.
Good luck
Steve

Hey guys, thanks a lot for the quick and useful feedback. Seem like there is much to know about selling on Ebay, and I appreciate the tips and advice.

Marty

A classified ad on ebay, cash on collect and a phone number sifts out a lot of the scammers and dreamers. Auctions are just too hit and miss imo.

Also remember that whilst these bikes are quite rare now, it is only less than 1 percent of bikers who would seriously want to own one.

My GSX1100 got 3500 hits but only two phone calls in about 3 weeks on ebay. First to see bought it. If there are no takers, don't necessarily assume it is overpriced, it might just be a case of waiting until the right buyer sees it. Again, these are pretty 'specialist' bikes.

That is an early B1 model ? the one with the big instrument pod instead of a front fairing as on the later B2 - apparently designed that way to reduce wind blast.