FOUND A SOLUTION Removing Carbon Deposits

Is there a good way to remove tough carbon build up on alum piston tops.

Carb cleaner and a popsicle stick works ok but doesn't get it all.

The carb cleaner evaporates to fast to work good.

The Berrymans carb dip doesn't do anything?

Thanks, Spencer

Carb cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad.

Place them upside down in some solvent overnight. That gets the carbon to soften up.

A real fine stainless steel brush and some elbow grease..

If that don't work, tape up all but the domes up with duct tape, and find someone to glass bead the domes.

the pistons are pristine but for the carbon on top, don't want to scotch brite them or mark them up.

I'm seriously considering going to a big block and want to sell the 1075 cylinder and pistons.

Use 1/4" air grinder with fine 3M roloc scotch wheels. Then glass bead them.
I always glass bead most of my parts.

+1 on the 3M roloc scotch birte wheels. Although I used it with a drill and with wd40 and not the actual 3M roloc's but I think Harbor Freight equivalents. Works very well at cleaning up old baked on gaskets as well.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: the pistons are pristine but for the carbon on top, don't want to scotch brite them or mark them up.

I'm seriously considering going to a big block and want to sell the 1075 cylinder and pistons.

I don't think a Scotch Brite pad would mark them...even fired from a cannon

ZERO wrote:

4TheKZ1000 wrote: the pistons are pristine but for the carbon on top, don't want to scotch brite them or mark them up.

I'm seriously considering going to a big block and want to sell the 1075 cylinder and pistons.

I don't think a Scotch Brite pad would mark them...even fired from a cannon

Now thats funny,i dont care who ya is!

I got those piston tops looking good.

I used 100 grit glass bead media at 20 psi. They look great, and with the low psi didn't do any harm to them.

I did pull rings and wrist pins. I used 2.5 inch blue painters tape to protect the ring grooves and put piston in a old sock before blasting. I gave them a bath in hot soapy water when done, rinsed then very good, blew them out with compressed air and reinstalled the rings and wrist pins. I then soaked each one with WD-40 and put in a clean freezer bag till I'm ready to use.



I found a table top blast cabinet in my area, still in the box on Craig's List for $45.00



I hooked up a cool debris collection device that works awesome.

I riveted a flat piece of metal to lid of can. It separates the can into two halves and acts as a deflector as the debris enters the can, keeping the blast media from just passing though the can.

I then extended the metal plate half way down the can and within 2 inches from the water's top.

Then on the cans lid, one half, closest to the blaster, I punched holes in the lid, the suction of the shop vac pulls air in though these holes......pulling the debris down towards the water before going under plate and exiting the other half of can.

I will put a terry cloth towel on the can top if I exceed 60 psi or up at the gun. It will act as a filter.





It's a solution, but not for all. I had wanted one for years, just got lucky on this one. It is a mess, not much fun.......I still will take big items to my friend and let him do it..

Just waiting for 80B4 to find something wrong or un-safe with it.......... :dry:

WTF :ohmy: You'll shoot your eye out kid! :lol:
You need alot finer than that. Get glass measured in microns not grit.
And at least 80-90 PSI

z1kzonly wrote: WTF :ohmy: You'll shoot your eye out kid! :lol:
You need alot finer than that. Get glass measured in microns not grit.
And at least 80-90 PSI

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Your the man z1kzonly........your the freggin man !

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Are you gonna be sell the 1075 pistons and jugs?