Oh Wise Sage

650ed wrote: Another tip - The screws that look like Phillips are not; they are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). Using Phillips screwdrivers will mess them up, but it is very easy to modify Phillips screwdriver tips to make them fit properly. See pics in link below. Ed

kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/452802-loud-c...hile-cranking#452872

Have also found a #3 Phillips to work well on JIS heads.

I was told the taper is different so grinding the tip is not as good as getting JIS drivers. It canstill deform the metal if the tapers don't match. I think I've seen JIS bits on ebay.

loudhvx wrote: I was told the taper is different so grinding the tip is not as good as getting JIS drivers. It canstill deform the metal if the tapers don't match. I think I've seen JIS bits on ebay.

That may very well be true, but I have used my modified Phillips a lot and never deformed a screw head yet (even though many screws required a lot of force to loosen). As shown in the picture below, they are really good fit when modified carefully. I wouldn't mind trying the JIS bits to see if they fit as well or better than the modified ones. Ed

Always being a change of underwear for those "Oh sh*!" moments!! Happens once in a while...

650ed wrote:

loudhvx wrote: I was told the taper is different so grinding the tip is not as good as getting JIS drivers. It canstill deform the metal if the tapers don't match. I think I've seen JIS bits on ebay.

That may very well be true, but I have used my modified Phillips a lot and never deformed a screw head yet (even though many screws required a lot of force to loosen). As shown in the picture below, they are really good fit when modified carefully. I wouldn't mind trying the JIS bits to see if they fit as well or better than the modified ones. Ed

I agree. I use the same method of grinding the tips off too and have had decent luck, especially on larger screws, but there are some screws that seem to always deform slightly. Most notably the small ones on the timing plate for points. Also some of the small carburetor screws seem to get deformed over time, even with a modified philips that seems to fit ok.

At my work we have Frearson screwdrivers and they are really wierd looking. At first they appear to be a big philips, but closer up you see they come to a very sharp point and the head taper is very different. Even though it is a really big screwdriver, it is the best tool for taking out some small screws because it just fits perfectly. A similar philips will just mangle it.

My friend is restoring an RD400 Daytona and trying to talk him into getting the JIS bits. If I can talk him into it, I'll post if there are any advantages.

andy9802gt wrote: It doesn't matter if you're wearing cleaning underwear or not, the first time you get the death wobble at 130 you WILL shit your pants.

+1 on the death wobble. If you are not aware of what that is on the early Z's (not sure when and if they fixed the problem) they are prone to wobble in the steering at very high speed (+125 mph) or high speed turns (dependent on how much strain you are exerting on the frame during your turn). I experienced both. Once at 130 mph or so and another time hitting the curves hard and low around a golf course (the bike was leaning or fanning back and forth on its own in the direction of the turn). Mine was a '74 900. You look like you have a late 70's LTD. Like I said, don't know when it was fixed. I read years later it had to do with a weak head stem design. Others here attribute it to frame flex. Not sure which one is correct. Good luck.

Constantly clean and inspect bike check oil often and change often.

hold on when you twist these things up it gets interesting lol :evil:

LINK

My uncles advice

.

Get yourself one of these Morgan Units for Carb sync....

Morgan & Colortune...

KZ250LTD wrote:

650ed wrote:

KZ250LTD wrote:

650ed wrote: When working on the bike always follow the torque recommendations shown in the Kawasaki service manual using quality torque wrenches of the appropriate scales. (i.e. don't try to use a foot pound torque wrench to tighten to inch pound settings). This will prevent you from becoming too familiar with Time-Serts or Heli-Coils. Ed

Except for the recommendations that are wrong

That's why I specified the Kawasaki Service Manual as opposed to Clymer, Haynes, or some other aftermarket manual. Obviously I can't speak for all manuals, but none of the torque specs in the KZ650 Kawasaki Service Manuals I have (3 different ones) are wrong. If there are known torque spec mistakes in the manuals for other models perhaps KZRIDER can create a forum in which to list them. Ed

As TexasKZ mentioned above in some of the KZ1000 FSM's the torque specs for the cam caps are too high. Manual states 12ft-lbs, should be MAX of 90 in-lbs (7.5ft-lbs). A few of us have learned this the hard way :pinch:

12 ft lbs. Yikes! The KZ650 manual calls for 95-113 in lbs. I've always set mine at 100 in lbs with no problems; but I'm sure if I tried 12 ft lbs I'd be buying a timesert kit. Maybe KZRIDER can make a stickey or Forum group under "Technical" where these errors can be documented. Ed

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