TOPIC:

Anyone have any knowledge on this macheen

www.kzrider.com/media/kunena/attachments...Z12013byZealot20.jpg


It's like Viagra on two wheels

bluezbike wrote: Zukdave, how about relocating the cooler, maybe in front of the forks just above the fender, or just under the headlight? That way maybe you can lower the forks in the trees. Just an idea that may save some time and moolah.

Agreed, but strap the forks down, don't slide them through the trees. Raking the frame effectively moves the engine back in the chassis. This will make wheelies worse. It's what we did back in the 80s when tyres were crap and we didn't know any better. Look at the quick streetbikes now. They have all the weight up front and a long arm to take advantage of good tyres.

Sorry for the threadjack...

Lorcan wrote:

bluezbike wrote: Zukdave, how about relocating the cooler, maybe in front of the forks just above the fender, or just under the headlight? That way maybe you can lower the forks in the trees. Just an idea that may save some time and moolah.

Agreed, but strap the forks down, don't slide them through the trees. Raking the frame effectively moves the engine back in the chassis. This will make wheelies worse. It's what we did back in the 80s when tyres were crap and we didn't know any better. Look at the quick streetbikes now. They have all the weight up front and a long arm to take advantage of good tyres.

Sorry for the threadjack...

Do you have any pictures you can share of strapping down the stock KZ front end?

Thanks

I forgot this is in my Drag strip thread
there's pic's on what I want.

www.kzrider.com/forum/25-racing/509014-d...strip-trip?start=160

Strapping the front is much better than sliding the forks through the yokes as it also stiffens the fork and means the front wheel won't move any further than it would as standard, so no clearance issues will come from it.

You can also vary the strap to suit different tracks and the grip available - strap down hard for a grippy track and less so for marginal tracks.

Here's my 750 strapped down to about 1.5" of movement (4" standard).



I ran 1.56 sixty foots at 60" (+2" from standard) wheelbase with this setup.

If you rake the front you'll most likely find that it hits the bars harder but every pound of weight ON the bars is a pound OFF the rear tyre which is where you want it to be. Keep the weight towards the front of the bike and adjust the wheelbase is the modern way.

Here's my 760cc bike with 4" welded in the arm from another bike - a KLR650! You can see the welds in this pic and the support plate underneath which doubled as a wheelie bar mount.

With the GPz arm I'm 2 1/2" over stock.
I have a strap but it still will hit the cooler.

Wth is the guy doing behind that bike with the hockey stick and a brick ?

zukdave wrote: With the GPz arm I'm 2 1/2" over stock.
I have a strap but it still will hit the cooler.

So move the cooler

geerbangr wrote: Wth is the guy doing behind that bike with the hockey stick and a brick ?

I knew someone would ask that...

This was at a sprint event back in the 90s. Back then once you had staged you could, if you wanted to cheat the clocks, roll back a little before launching without triggering a red light in order to get a run up at the lights. So they had a guy with a wooden chock to stop you. They still do this at certain historic events like Brighton Speed Trials.

Alright Lorcan that makes sense. I looked at that pic,scratched my head and went

DoctoRot wrote:

Very cool looking Racer Doc, do you have anymore photos/info on it. Chassis looks very much like a Zuk