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I'm really dissappointed with my choice of ....
- riverroad
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- 1980 1000LTD B4
I tried one of those half helmets when I went to the HD factory in Kansas city. But I made the mistake of wearing it when I rode the V-Rod. Yep, felt like I had a drag chute on my neck.
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- OnkelB
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I don't think I'd do this to a KZ, but the other day, I saw a bobbed hardtail Honda 750 with Clubman bars. But what was unusual about it was that the Clubman bars were mounted upside down. Kinda ape hangarish looking. Don't know how comfortable they'd be, but it looked pretty cool on his bike.
That´s the way I have the clubmans mounted on my 650, very common style in Europe. You may or may not like the look (I do, obviously), but it makes for a very comfortable riding position, gives you a slight forward lean without putting too much weight on your wrists.
Btw, note that there are two general types of clubmans, a Honda type and a Kawasaki type - if you want to mount them this way you need to get the Kawasaki type as the Honda type is too narrow between the "horns" to clear the gauges.
Post edited by: OnkelB, at: 2007/10/18 13:30
77 KZ 650 B1, 82 GPz 1100 B2.
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- riverroad
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- 1980 1000LTD B4
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But for some reason, the bars on that Honda were up higher. Maybe he had them up on risers or something.
Do you happen to remember what cables you used?
Post edited by: riverroad, at: 2007/10/18 15:14
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- rstnick
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I had bars that had about a 1" raise to them before these, and did not find there was much difference in reach between the two.
My turning circle has gotten bigger (bigger's better I'm told;) ) because the bars hit the fairing at full turn. Not the tank though, as I built up the stop on the frame.
I like the position. I did move the footpegs back about 6 inches, after one season, as well. Feels better overall.
Rob
CANADA
Need a key for your Kawasaki? PM me
1978 KZ650 C2, 130K kms, Delkevic ex, EI, CVK32, PMC easy clutch, ATK fork brace, steering damper, braced swingarm, 18" Z1R front wheel.
2000 ZRX1100
2011 Ninja 250R
2005 z750s
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- OnkelB
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But for some reason, the bars on that Honda were up higher. Maybe he had them up on risers or something.
Do you happen to remember what cables you used?
Makes sense, apart from being narrower between the "horns" the Honda type has a different profile from the Kawasaki type - in the pic below the Kawasaki type (which I have) is no. 111008, the Honda type is no. 111002. No. 111003 is an adjustable type, which is twice as expensive as the others, all are Tomasellis.
I´m running stock cables, upside down the clubmans are not that different lengthwise from the stock bars.
Btw, the prices you see to the right is Danish Kronen, as of today they´re around 5.32 to a dollar.
Post edited by: OnkelB, at: 2007/10/18 16:52
77 KZ 650 B1, 82 GPz 1100 B2.
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- 2M4Dale
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rstnick, I seen pics of your bike elswhere on the forum ... Great lookin' bike ... but I'm afraid the low mounted clubmans would be uncomfortable for me.
I've got a long row to hoe before my bike makes it back to the street ... but a long winter ahead to get it there ... buying the superbike bars now was really just to cheer me up ... lol. Soon I'll have to dig in and repair and/or replace forks, headlight, gauges, etc, etc.
Thanks guys for all the input !!!!!
Hello from Sunny Mansfield, Ohio
1980 KZ750H1 LTD
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
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- 2M4Dale
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Hello from Sunny Mansfield, Ohio
1980 KZ750H1 LTD
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
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- dannyg40
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Post edited by: dannyg40, at: 2007/10/24 19:07
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- 2M4Dale
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Hello from Sunny Mansfield, Ohio
1980 KZ750H1 LTD
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
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- 2M4Dale
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Hello from Sunny Mansfield, Ohio
1980 KZ750H1 LTD
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
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- wiredgeorge
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For us that have been around awhile, we go to the old fitting technique... sit on the bike in a riding position and place your hands where they would fall naturally on the bar grips. This means that your hands will be clutching imaginary grips unless your current grips are in the right place. Have a friend mark/note the location...
OK... a place like z1enterprises.com sells a ZILLION types of bars through their various sources. They won't have 90 percent of them listed on the site.
Figure out WHERE your hands were in the ideal position. There are THREE specs with any set of bars and sometimes a 4th. The most common are WIDTH, RISE and PULLBACK. Sometimes, the flat, center part that is clamped by your bar clamps is also mentioned.
Where you had your hands on the imaginary grips, first measure how far apart your hands were. This is the WIDTH, then how high your hands were, this is the RISE... they measure rise on the bars as the line from the fork tubes straight up above the triple tree and last, the pull back. That is how far the bars bend from the rise to where they end up...
Just take the three measurements you come up with and call Z1E and talk to Jeff and tell him the measurements. You will want 7/8" diameter bars. That is all there is to it... your new bars will FIT. You most likely can use your current cables/hoses because the new bars won't likely be any higher or pulled back farther than the bars on there now. Most of the bars Jeff sells are pretty reasonably priced. The ones on his site that you can look at are already marked with the specs I mentioned. Don't forget to account that if you have no shield, you will bend over a bit when riding compared to just sitting on the bike.
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- CptEDIV
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-Ed
1979 KZ 650 D2 \"Midnight\" blue.
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