1982 GPZ750 (KZ750r1) - An Opportunity in Learning and Bonding

Does not look ruined.

While I wish that was the case, I popped the little end off where the choke rod attaches in some of my early attempts to get it out. Otherwise, it's fine. 

Ahhh. How does the bottom of the plunger bore look? That is where the seal sits. If that area is badly pitted, you may need to look for a replacement carburetor.

Whoops ha, stuff happens though. They had two different styles of those plungers for the BS34's. Did your ones come with bellow style or plain plunger dust covers? I've both already "loose" styles of both if you don't already have replacements. Might pull out another one, unmolested, for comparison just to be sure..

TexasKZ wrote:

Ahhh. How does the bottom of the plunger bore look? That is where the seal sits. If that area is badly pitted, you may need to look for a replacement carburetor.
 

The bore is surprisingly clean, I'm really pleased actually. Looking it after the fact, I wonder if rather than being stuck with corrosion from water, it was just gummed up with a bit of old fuel that really locked it down. Thank goodness too! Looking online, getting new carb sets for this is expensive...
    ​​​​​​​

Whoops ha, stuff happens though. They had two different styles of those plungers for the BS34's. Did your ones come with bellow style or plain plunger dust covers? I've both already "loose" styles of both if you don't already have replacements. Might pull out another one, unmolested, for comparison just to be sure..

Mine have the bellows looking dust covers. They are all 4 pretty dried and cracked. Do you think that's a big enough issue that they should be replaced?   

Here's what i was talking about, BS34-32 Mikuni similarities. They both used the same dust seal shaft size 4.67mm ish but went about the production of those rubber seals in different ways. Also used on Suzuki too. So focus on Mikuni, not Brand. Either accordion bellow style, which you have, or    simply a boot.    

Oh interesting, it's crazy how similar the plungers are. Just minor differences. 

Savage89 wrote:

Mine have the bellows looking dust covers. They are all 4 pretty dried and cracked. Do you think that's a big enough issue that they should be replaced?
 

For your intents and purposes of this project, you probably dont need to replace them. My bike runs fine with those same boots being ripped off of the plunger. Someone here would probably say why they matter though cause they're there for a reason.

As Bound mentioned, not necessary for choke operation. But..some sort of cover keeps debris/moisture/bugs out. If those bellows are totally wrecked just make sure the crunchy bits don't impede full closure of each plunger! Suzuki used wound springs per each plunger, Kawasaki didn't, just tiny springs one on each choke lifter. And those TWO detent balls and springs where choke rod passes thru carb bank.  

You may find the operating levers for the plungers need a little "bend". On mine I guess some gibbon had been pulling the choke too hard so the levers were bent and the plungers didn't seat fully

Alright, the new choke plunger arrived on Saturday and it is installed in carb #1. I gotta say, the dust boot on it is super soft and flexible. I'm probably gonna replace the boots on the other three at some time as they are cracked and stiff. But for now, we move on. With one done, I really am getting the itch to get the others done and move on to the next big thing. 
I've ordered a set of keys from our friend on here, $45 for 2 keys is less than half of every quote I got from local lock smiths, super excited for that!
Next I can order a battery and get ready to start checking over the engine itself. I anticipate running compression and leak down tests for each cylinder. Are there any other diagnostic or other tests you all recommend I perform before I start cranking over the engine with a battery? (I have already turned it over manually, and it turns smoothly as far as I can tell)

If it turns smoothly by hand I would crank it up with the plugs out (saves the battery) until the oil light goes out, turn the fuel on and fire it up. Checking compression and leak down on a cold motor that hasn’t run in a long time will probably send you down a rabbit hole for no reason!!!