A fairly reliable rule of thumb is using sealer on holes that go through into the crankcase, as opposed to holes that are blind. Some of the cylinder stud holes are also open into the crankcase. ThreeBond 1184 is probably as close as you will get to factory original? I know we used ThreeBond, but I don't know if that is the original number, It is gray, as original. I used a locktite product on my last engine and it was blue, you don't want that showing on an original appearing build. A LITTLE gray sealant squished out on the crankcase seam would be the most original appearing as on the engine assembly line I'm quite sure they didn't take the time to wipe the seams clean like I did during the assembly process. Assembling engines was always the most enjoyable part of my job, at least while I was Production Mechanic. Have fun with it!
Former M.E. at Kawasaki Motors Manufacturing, Lincoln, NE
1966 W1 (the Z1 of 1966-50H.P. and 100mph!)
1974 Z1A (disassembled)
1976 KZ900B LTD (SOLD!) it's in GOOD Hands!
1978 KZ1000 LTD
1976 KZ900B LTD pile O parts!
I've used 518 (and it's red) with an accelerator on the opposite side of the case. I switched to 3 Bond and won't go back. Easier to apply, less mess. Just put down a very thin bead and go over it lightly with your finger to spread it. Try to stay away from the inside of the case.
Do what Krazee said for sealing bolts...I just use 3 Bond on the shaft and install. Seems to have worked.
I have a couple of Z1B's restored, an '80 KZ1000LTD restored, a 1981 KZ550 restored and a 2008 KLR 650 for off road fun. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
I’ve been working on the head. I found a local engine shop that had no problem welding up the broken fins. I cleaned the up today, I need to take the head back at least one more time to do a little more weld build up. They it off the be glass bead, I’m hoping that will blend in the repairs. Then to my Vapor Hone guy, and finally back to a different shop that’s been building metric engines for 30+ years.
Vapor blasting with glass bead tends to leave behind some bead clinging to the workpiece. Don't know it it's due to surface tension or electrostatic attraction. To check for bead remnants, be in a dark or dimly lit place where you can be at least a few feet away from the workpiece. You'll also need a bright, point source light. A bright handheld LED flashlight with a spot beam works very well. Hold the light just below eye level & shine it at the workpiece. Any glass bead will reflect, making it easy to see what needs additional cleaning. A strong detergent solution, brushing and directed stream of water will remove the remaining bead.
slmjim & Z1BEBE
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.
After using the vapor hone for 20 hours or so, on multiple different metals and finishes (parkerized etc).I now soak the whole dang part in e85 gasoline before(let soak 10 min) and after blasting it,I dunk and swish around about 6 times. Then I water rinse air blow out. The glass is so fine its crazy, add that to a bit of oil and it sucks. Slimjim Z1bebe is 100 percent on about using l.e.d .to see it .Super shiny like a pearl paint. I use the storage totes that people throw out on trash day , when they get too much goo in em strain ,rinse ,refill.
That head is looking great, very nice repair for first round of welding for sure.