Marty. Thank you. Yes I’m going with the original paint in the root beer brown. Seems like every 900 A you see is green.
I do the same, and have all my smaller parts cleaned and blasted first, that way I can inspect, powder coat won’t fix flaws. Typically I cover the “not to coat” areas in blue painters tape and when dropping off to the coater I go over the details with them. I miss this one. Aslo missed excluding the brake pedal frame mount from powder coating. I’m not looking forward to cleaning that off. I used scotch bright type wheels for a dremel. They worked good not to aggressive which is what I wanted. I needed to remove enough mills to get the pad to fit but still keep it covered to protect it from rust. I cleaned up the corners with a very fine file. I noticed the pads were not very consistent so I filed them slightly to turn up surfaces.
You're getting there Matt, always in the details ya know. Happy New Year BTW and everybody else! Maybe the new year will give a reprieve from the hiatus i'm sure everyone has been affected by, unless you're Steve. I don't think he ever leaves the shed, maybe for a ride or two. Anybody know someone can duplicate the dated rubber bands for the brake lines??
"quick glance" rubberbands on the early models? I have a tupperware container of old hoses for just that, correct dates inked on the rubber hose. Like You mentioned on a correct low vin with no or little driving time an old correct dated hose is a super nice touch! I've had whole upper and lower brake lines barrel plated just to maintain the Nichirin Japan fittings and doesn't seem to affect the rubber at all but you do lose the clarity of the date code. But i restore for looks AND tooling around on so i have my own supply of fittings and 1/8" brake line to cut to proper length and index fittings. Then all i have to do is take them to the machine and have them crimped.
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