TOPIC:

Rotisserie? I'm curious how well this works out for you. As I stated in other posts, I sealed up my tank with block off plates, then did the dryer tumble with it packed in tight. (~30 minutes, then reversed) First I did the tumble several times with MEK to remove the kreme crap and stop my carbs from plugging / flooding. Then I did the tumble with metal rescue and drywall screws to remove the trapped iron oxide. I now have a perfectly clean metal tank on a bike that never misses a beat.

I'm sure everyone is sick of posting this pic of the block off plates, but this is how it's done.


It cleaned up nicely.

old_kaw wrote: Rotisserie? I'm curious how well this works out for you. As I stated in other posts, I sealed up my tank with block off plates, then did the dryer tumble with it packed in tight. (~30 minutes, then reversed) First I did the tumble several times with MEK to remove the kreme crap and stop my carbs from plugging / flooding. Then I did the tumble with metal rescue and drywall screws to remove the trapped iron oxide. I now have a perfectly clean metal tank on a bike that never misses a beat.

I'm sure everyone is sick of posting this pic of the block off plates, but this is how it's done.

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It cleaned up nicely.

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Gorgeous. Couple questions....Why drywall screws? And do you have the block off plates still?

Thanks,

Warner

Why drywall screws?
Drywall screws has sharp edges that cut into the rust layer.

old_kaw wrote: Rotisserie? I'm curious how well this works out for you. As I stated in other posts, I sealed up my tank with block off plates, then did the dryer tumble with it packed in tight. (~30 minutes, then reversed) First I did the tumble several times with MEK to remove the kreme crap and stop my carbs from plugging / flooding. Then I did the tumble with metal rescue and drywall screws to remove the trapped iron oxide. I now have a perfectly clean metal tank on a bike that never misses a beat.

I'm sure everyone is sick of posting this pic of the block off plates, but this is how it's done.

Attachment not found

It cleaned up nicely.

Attachment not found

Looking at my tank, do you think a complete stripping of the paint is in order? I have a media blast cabinet that I just put together. Haven't even bought media for it yet.

Warner

My compressor and media blasting cabinet that I have yet to try. I did most of the mods to the cabinet that many suggest.

Warner

Scirocco wrote: Why drywall screws?
Drywall screws has sharp edges that cut into the rust layer.

I've heard of using BB's, but never drywall screws. Definitely sound scratchy, though .

Warner

Scirocco wrote: Why drywall screws?
Drywall screws has sharp edges that cut into the rust layer.

In hindsight I would not use them again. They are really pointy, but I wanted something that would knock all of that coating loose and get into all of the seams. I have some light chain that would have probably been easier on the tank but it would not have been as effective on the crap in the tank. I highly doubt there was much rust coating left inside this tank . It does look good inside.

old_kaw wrote:

Scirocco wrote: Why drywall screws?
Drywall screws has sharp edges that cut into the rust layer.

In hindsight I would not use them again. They are really pointy, but I wanted something that would knock all of that coating loose and get into all of the seams. I have some light chain that would have probably been easier on the tank but it would not have been as effective on the crap in the tank. I highly doubt there was much rust coating left inside this tank . It does look good inside.

I guess if it were me I would just get some glass slag blast media and use that to shake around in the tank. I wouldn't use it to actually blast the outside of the tank with since it'll warp the heck out of it but it should cut well just sloshing it around.

I agree with oldjeep. The blaster should be used for parts, not the tank. Use stripper for the tank. Aircraft stripper is nasty stuff, but the coating will scrape off without damaging the metal. Be sure to use eye protection, and rubber gloves. It splatters and burns the skin when it gets on you. MEK, BTW, eats rubber gloves, no matter what glove you use.

Use the blaster for parts, and I would be very cautious with blasting anything internal to the engine. (hitting the tank rust spots with some media.)

old_kaw wrote: I agree with oldjeep. The blaster should be used for parts, not the tank. Use stripper for the tank. Aircraft stripper is nasty stuff, but the coating will scrape off without damaging the metal. Be sure to use eye protection, and rubber gloves. It splatters and burns the skin when it gets on you. MEK, BTW, eats rubber gloves, no matter what glove you use.

Use the blaster for parts, and I would be very cautious with blasting anything internal to the engine. (hitting the tank rust spots with some media.)

I'm thinking that tank rust is pretty superficial. I think most or all of it will polish off pretty easily. I'm wondering if just touching the tank up would be enough, or do you think a full strip/paint is what's really needed?

Thanks,

Warner

Webbie1 wrote: After the gas tank, I'm not really sure what's the next logical thing to attack.... Warner

We've always held the position that's it's best to make sure it'll stop before it's made to go. Brakes first. But that's just us.

We've dealt with tank rust very effectively in the past by using electrolytic rust removal. Cheap, very effective & non-toxic. Do it outside, as hydrogen gas is produced as a byproduct.

Googling on the term "electrolytic rust removal" will return many results describing the process, supplies & equipment needed. The thing we do that differs from most setups is, we use a turn signal bulb in series with a lead (doesn't matter if it's the + or - lead) as a current-limiting resistor and process indicator. Don't despair if the results aren't thourough in just a few hours. Heavy rust can require 24 ~ 48 hrs. to be effective, especially on large areas.

This is a typical tank cleaning setup:
www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/gas-tank-cleaning-1.cfm


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote:

Webbie1 wrote: After the gas tank, I'm not really sure what's the next logical thing to attack.... Warner

We've always held the position that's it's best to make sure it'll stop before it's made to go. Brakes first. But that's just us.

We've dealt with tank rust very effectively in the past by using electrolytic rust removal. Cheap, very effective & non-toxic. Do it outside, as hydrogen gas is produced as a byproduct.

Googling on the term "electrolytic rust removal" will return many results describing the process, supplies & equipment needed. The thing we do that differs from most setups is, we use a turn signal bulb in series with a lead (doesn't matter if it's the + or - lead) as a current-limiting resistor and process indicator. Don't despair if the results aren't thourough in just a few hours. Heavy rust can require 24 ~ 48 hrs. to be effective, especially on large areas.

This is a typical tank cleaning setup:
www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/gas-tank-cleaning-1.cfm


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

You prefer this to the metal rescue method? I'm going to try the metal rescue first....can always do electrolysis afterwards, too.

Thanks,

Warner