1979 KZ750 Street Tracker - Pittsburgh, PA

So I started this project over 9 months ago, with a vision to finally build an aggressive on and offroad tracker, more focus to the on road part Over last winter much of it came together, I have some of the more notable changes listed below as well as the more subtle differences. The way things stand right now limits my time with kids/work/etc, but this is my third build so I'm driven to finish before mid July (Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix Show). Let me know what you guys think, first time sharing on these forums!

Changes / Upgrades

1. Mikuni VM32 carburators
2. UNI Twin Stage 15deg angled air filters
3. Custom CNC machined intake manifold adaptors
4. 2001 YZ250 Single pull throttle assembly
5. 2003 SV650 Front brake master
6. 2004 R1 Rear brake master
7. Stainless brake lines front and back
8. Shinko 804s up front and in the back, new wheel bearings and dust seals installed
9. Renthal mx bars with crossbrace
10. Resurfaced discs front and back
11. Upgraded Sparckmoto regulator/rectifier
12. Starter clutch eliminated, time to break a leg
13. Battery tray and tail hood welded onto frame, passenger pegs eliminated and ground flush
14. Powdercoated wheels, frame, triples, bars, hubs, brackets, mounts, EVERYTHING.
15. Tank sealed with POR15 then prepped and repainted in 2009 Mercedes Benz SLR Crystal Laurite Silver, finished with a new oem gas cap and seal.
16. New petcock and fuel lines with an angled t-fitting
17. New Tracker style headlight with running lamp and stone guard with new 5 piece adjustable brackets
18. 2005 ZX6R (636) Clutch perch and lever + new oem clutch cable
19. Forks recently rebuild with new seals, wipers, and gators, and period correct adjustable steering stabilizer
20. 1969 Kawasaki G3 Speedo fitted to custom mounting brackets
21. All wiring redone and terminals cleaned up and replaced with bullet connectors/new sheathing
22. New Emgo classic rear shocks, not sure how long I will run them but they are cheap
23. 2003 SV650 footpegs, polished then mated to factory KZ brackets
24. New 530 O-Ring chain, front sprocket, and rear sprockets
25. New oil seals all around for the motor, new gaskets for sidecovers, valve cover, and oil pan, new coil and wire + caps, fresh points, new condensor and points plate installed
26. Fresh oil filter and o-rings installed
27. Stainless Allen bolt kit for all engine covers and any other hardware on the bike
28. Custom made twin highmount straight pipes (may install baffles from and old arrow exhaust that fit perfect). These pipes are currently ceramic coated but will be wrapped up with some nice DEI wrap once the motor is ready to properly heat cycle to shrink the wrap. (post-tuning)
29. Oury brown grips for that soft touch.
30. Loads of other stuff I'm forgetting, so many late nights in the garage....there is almost nothing left untouched except the bottom end of the motor.

As she stands right now (5/31/17) Waiting on extended throttle cables, oil breather, seat foam, and new slim battery. Rear master cyl needs linkage fabbed.


From the back:


Other side:


Front shot:


For all of the remaining pics from the build and my other builds (1973 GT250 + 1974 XL175 + 1973 CB350) go here because it takes way too long to post up hundreds of pics one by one into this post:

colaturka65.imgur.com/

Thanks guys, hope you like it! Come see me and the kawi at the 2017 Pittsburgh Vintage GP July 15th-16th!

I LIKE IT!

I personally like the street tracker look. i would like to see how your going to finish the tail section.
And maybe smooth out pipes out a little. I will be watching.

tell me more about that carb setup :evil:

Cheers, The tail section is coming together, the seat and pan will rest on top of the frame rail and hoop, what I don't want is an expected led strip taillight, I was thinking about recessing two micro LED bullets into the back of the seat itself, making a removable toolbag as well that matches the seat.

Something like this:

I like this!

Les

DoctoRot wrote: tell me more about that carb setup :evil:

Absolutely! Instead of the factory CV carbs I decided to take on the tuning challenge of Mikuni VM32s where most would have run VM34s, I had a brand new set of 32s sitting on my bench with not a lick of gas run through them. So I went for it! Had my close machinist buddy clone one of the rubber intake manifold adapters, making changes to allow for the vms to bolt right with silicone couplers and stainless clamps, and to finish with two uni twin-stage foam filters on the ends.




Then I used a baseline tune from those using VM34s as a starting point for my jetting. Obviously there would need to be minor changes made due to intake and exhaust systems varying by each persons build and location. The first time I started the bike it fired up, the kickstarter had massive kickback with each start attempt, then when it fired 3 kicks later, it revved out as quickly as I could hit the kill switch. Turns out my cheapo 2 -1 throttle cable had not been given enough slack after the splitter, causing the slides in each carb to sit higher at idle and not bottom out completely they way they should if you have a proper length cable. Its all the slack I could give the cable...still they sat too high. I am running the 2.0 slides and may have to experiment with jetting but I feel I am close, once I get the idle to settle with these new cables (on their way) I can stick it to the bike and properly tune her.

I have been thinking about doing a carb swap for the 34's but am wondering how people sync the carbs with no vacuum ports, and if the carbs arent connected with linkages how do you actually sync them? via cable? that seems imprecise on something that usually is usually a minute adjustment, plus cables stretch.

DoctoRot wrote: I have been thinking about doing a carb swap for the 34's but am wondering how people sync the carbs with no vacuum ports, and if the carbs arent connected with linkages how do you actually sync them? via cable? that seems imprecise on something that usually is usually a minute adjustment, plus cables stretch.

I use either popsicle sticks tied to two equal length strings with tension on the strings. Stick em right under the slides, the second both break free at the same time, my carbs are synced haha. Never fails. Can also use a ball bearing, just make sure you can pick it up with magnet if it drops into the cyl.

That may work for a static sync in which the goal is to make all slide heights the same which provides a decent starting point for syncing the carbs, but I believe the issue is how does one perform a dynamic sync when the carb holders have no vacuum ports. Keep in mind that the goal of the dynamic sync is to ensure the vacuum drawn by all carbs is equal at idle rpm. Accomplishing this goal may result in the different carbs slide heights being a little different between carbs since there are other factors (such as valve clearances and condition, piston ring condition, etc.) that may affect vacuum level at idle rpm. Ed