1980 KZ550

Ignition or bike? :evil: R

Also, I am thinking heat will be needed to break the point plat bolts. I can retap the point cover, but rather not have the inner plate bolits buggered. Any other ideas? R

That's disappointing, hopefully that's as far as the corrosion got on internals. To get that broken screw out I'd find a reverse drill bit, apply penetrating oil over a period of time and apply some heat as you have good access to where it's threaded into. When you start drilling you will likely find the broken part unscrewing itself on the end of the drill bit before you've gone far.

For your ignition plate etc. I'd soak it with penetrating oil let it sit apply some more. Given it's condition I doubt it's going to be a 5 minute fix if you get it off so patience will be key in not breaking anything. After it's sat for a while use heat and see if it will budge.

Well it is holding oil and I don't think the bottom end would rust. The top end was free of rust, I see the shinny shim buckets and piston tops. Also think an ebay replacement of those parts or dyna is likely. Will test it on the meter after cleaned. R

Now though this rust might explain why the clutch is stuck. Looks like I will be fighting rust a while. Time for the engine to come out on the bench me thinks. R

That ignition compartment is more or less sealed. I would clean off whatever oil is in there and then try to fill it up with Evaporust and let it soak for a few days. The more rust you can remove, the easier it will be to get it apart without destroying it.

You could use naval jelly too, but have to be careful not to get it on the aluminum parts. If doing that, I would just daub it on the screws and the area immediately around them. Once the plate is out, getting the rust off will be relatively easy.

The plate is off. Still soaking for the crank end bolt. The timing lobe and advancer are roached. Pulled the other cover sprocket side. No rust there. Clutch cable was rusted stuck. Will get some pics and keep plugging away. Phosphoric acid soaking the tank now too. I think it best to pull the motor for cleaning. Nothing yet critical fault wise. This looks like a full frame up resto. R

rrsmsw9999 wrote: Well, a challenge it is.

Carbs gone through and cleaned. Need some carb bowl gaskets and couple o-rings, but otherwise was easy to do. carb cleaner and then compressed air.

Bad part. The points cover bolt were fused. One cracked of flush with impact driver and I chiseled the head on the other. Tons of dust and rust on points, crank end, point plate etc. See the video. Pretty sure the motor is basically okey. I could see shiny buckets and the plugs were not rusted, no visible rust with a flashlight and the crank turned so she i not seized.

Lots to do.

R

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That sucks. Did you put a little oil in the cylinders before you turned the crank? I'd do it if not.
Steve

Good news.
1. busted bolt on timing cover drilled and retaped. Acceptable.
2. cold compression test 1 - 125, 2-95, 3-95, 4-125. I think that's pretty good for a motor that is bone cold and hasn't run in 10+ years.
3. peering through clutch side by the oil fill, this clean and shiny, no rust.
4. Tank derusting is going well. denatured alcohol to remove varnish first, overnight with etch and prep - phosphoric acid and it is looking nearly new. Will have it sit a while more then neutralized and WD 40.
Bad news.
1. Timing advance mount bolt snapped off about 1/3" of its end threads. DOn't think much of a worry there, I will shorten the snapped thread and use.
2. Advancer, cam and bearing is completely roached. Found on ebay.
3. Broke the pin that aligns the advancer on the crank. Anyone know where to find or can I sub any shear pin type thing?

Looking at a lot more work and still considering engine removal to do a full cleanup.

Any input appreciated. 715 307 1883

Pics to follow.

R

I usually see compression test numbers near 180 psi on KZ550's. That's tested hot after running. But cold does not drop off nearly that much, and wouldn't explain the big discrepancy between the outer and inner cylinders. Did you have the carbs off for the test? If not was the throttle held wide open with choke wide open?

Carbs off. Yeah, I see 155 is low normal. Either way with 3500 miles I am not gonna worry about it not being higher. Also using a pretty cheap gauge and I was turning crank with a wrench not the starter..

Here's a few pics of where I am.



Tank derusted. oiled and waiting.

Ignition compartment.














I still need the pin that I broke, but headed in the right direction for now.

R

I t

Got the battery hooked up. All electrics working. Compression tested much better using the starter vs. hand turn - 200 195 200 200. Found the 3mm spring pin for the rotor. It's gonna run soon. Waiting for tubes and carb parts before first run in 10+ years.I pulled the clutch cover to take a peak and was pleased to see no rust, everything in order. gasket came of clean, buttoned her back up with allen SS cover bolts. Remounted the pulsing coil, plate and ignition cover. My retap was a abit, will need some silicone or double gaskets, not too bad though. Onto wheels and frame. R