Fuel Tank and Pet Cock Problems

Double post.

Will these fit? Ed

www.mikesxs.net/product/20-6419.html

That looks like them. Good job Ed.
Steve

Are the a press fit or glued in... ???... I pulled and twisted the short one but its not moving

I think they're press fit. You have to destroy them to get them out.
Steve

hello I wanted to update everyone and also thank you for all your help. I contacted Kreem and they said Acetone or MEK. Sense Acetone was $6 a gallon cheaper I thought I try it first. It worked. I soaked it and used a heavy gauge wire used to support suspended ceilings as a way to loosen the goo from the sides. Continued to shake and scrape till it was all loose. Then I flushed it with clean Acetone, then filled it enough to cover the goo and let it soak over night. After work the next day it was all dissolved into the Acetone. I poured it out and rinsed it with clean Acetone. I let it dry up, Plugged the petcock again and filled the tank to the top with Apple cider vinegar and let it soak 12 hours. I then poured half out, dumped in a couple hand full of screws and shook and rotated it by hand for as long as my arms would let me. I poured out the screws and remaining cider and was astounded by the results. Clean bare metal inside. I flushed it with the hose and cold water for 10 minutes or so. Dried everything off as best I could with compressed air and then coated the entire inside f the tank with WD-40 to stop the flash rust.

It was worth the few days work and patients. Now I need some advise on how to treat the inside of the tank to preserve it.

Also can somebody help me find seals for the petcock. I removed the damaged filter screen and have the replacements on order. As extra measure I soaked the petcock in Acetone over night as well. currently I have a clean petcock waiting to be rebuilt and installed on my nice clean tank...

Now the question is, why was it kreemed in the first place?
I think, nobody does that unless there was an "issue".

If the inside of the tank is not already rusted it will not rust as long as you keep fuel in it. Ed

missionkz wrote: Now the question is, why was it kreemed in the first place?
I think, nobody does that unless there was an "issue".

No leaks and now the tank is clean. I think it was rusty and the PO 30 years ago figured it was a good way to seal out the rust. I'm actually impressed at the condition of the tank. no rust at all on the seams. I just rubbed it out with marine grade polishing compound, followed by stuff called finesse polish. then some heavy past wax and its like new.

650ed wrote: If the inside of the tank is not already rusted it will not rust as long as you keep fuel in it. Ed

No rust now. But I wont be putting it back on the bike till I get the rear MC repaired and the petcock finished. Will the WD-40 coating keep it till I can get fuel in it and back on the tank

Wanted to update all my fans... LOL. Seriously it been a long journey but it almost there. Tank is done, Acetone cleaned out the Kreem. Apple Cider Viniger took all the rust. Carbs are done thanks to Jim at Redline Cycle, and on the bench waiting. All sheet metal parts and frame have had rust removed and painted. This is not a concourse restore, its more just to make it a solid daily driver. The question now is the drive chain, I know I bought an upgraded one but the was 25 years ago and I don't remember make or type. I need to know how to clean it and maintain it. Is there I different process to clean standard and o-ring type. Please see pics and if anyone can shed some light on type and how to clean and maintain I'd greatly appreciate the input.

Sorry pic didn't post.... I'll keep trying