1981 KZ750 LTD four questions

Hey all, total bike newbie here, so please forgive my lack of knowledge as I try to learn!

So I picked up a 1981 KZ750 LTD for a great price and it ran great after cleaning up the spark plugs and some fresh gas. The other day I noticed decided to try to address the Neutral lamp not always lighting/flickering, figuring the neutral switch was probably buggered up after (most likely) never being changed. So I attempt to remove the sprocket cover on the left side, two bolts come out, one is missing (sheared off maybe?) and the 4th has been ramrodded in with like a 7/16" instead of a metric... I remove the four bolts and can't seem to wiggle the cover off. Is there something I'm missing? This is also a reminder/lesson in not rushing anything you're not sure of... I managed to shear off 1 of the 2 freely moving bolts (overtightened.... idiot) so that will have to come out (hopefully an easy-out will do it). As a side note, after doing this and having only 2 bolts holding the cover on, for whatever reason I gave the clutch a squeeze. It was suddenly very loose and I noticed it moved the cover?! Can someone please shed some light on this? I want to get back out there!

One final thought, looking for a manual for this bike, is there a particular designation I should be looking for other than LTD? H? E?
Thank you again and sorry for being such a noob!

The bike is an 81 KZ750-H2 Ltd. 750H. 750-4 Ltd H. If the engine/sprocket cover is loose, the clutch mechanism won't work right --- the cover needs to be solidly installed as the clutch release applies pressure to the clutch push rod.

After removing the 4 bolts, the cover should pull off. The shifter shaft seal is usually what can make it hard to pull off --- just wiggle the cover & pull it off. shift lever & foot rest removed of course.

Thanks Martin! Another quick one, I'm pretty sure I got the right ones, but does anyone happen to know the dimensions of those cover bolts and a torque spec? I came up with metric size 6, 1.0 pitch, 75mm long, 10mm head... just going to use some zinc coated grade 8's from home depot for now (unless thats an issue?)

Kawasaki.com -->> KZ750-H2 -->> Engine covers diagram -->> BOLT-FLANGED, 6X70 --- part # 130G0670
They're 6mm bolts, so the torque is going to be in INCH/lbs --- probably around 65-75 INCH/lbs (not foot-pounds).
I think I've just snugged them up by feel using a small wrench, without cranking them down. And I use a high temp thread sealant as a locking agent --- kinda unconventional, but it works & the bolts can be removed easily next time.

Here's a site w a pdf manual & wiring diagrams. mbsween.bike-night KZ750L3 page
Scroll down & click "The Bible" link.

Note: some of the wiring diagrams are mislabeled in the links.
The 1981 Ltd is an H2, the 82 is an H3, & the 83 is an H4. .... search tags mbsween KZ750L3.

Most dimensions for bolts can be found in the parts diagrams. As an example, take a look at the link below. In the parts list under the diagram you will find bolt dimensions along with part numbers. Ed

www.dealercostparts.com/pages/oemparts#/...50-H2-1981/080119J-7

Thanks for the help everyone! Won't be able to get to this til sunday it looks like... working 12 hour days really grinds my gears...

Another quick question that some of you may have run into... So I'm guessing that the brake fluid is low (like not even in the eyeglass) because the previous owner couldn't get the reservoir cover off. The two little flat head thumbscrews are jammed into the cover and I can't seem to dislodge them. The slots for the screwdriver have been slightly deformed I'm guessing by P.O.'s attempt to remove... Has anyone run into this or have any suggestions? Bore them out and go get new ones?

I bought by 82 KZ750 last year and the screws for the master cylinder cover hadn't been removed in over 20 years. They were STUCK in there bad. I tried with a hand driver briefly then after having no luck switched to using my impact driver - that freed them up right away. If they are stuck I wouldn't futz around trying to turn them by hand, just use an impact driver.

Penetraing oil, impact driver firstly, but the m6 bolts are countersunk, so on mine I drilled the heads out, lifted the cap off and removed the remainder of the bolts.

If your brake fluid is like pea soup and it hasn't been changed in years maybe expect some further problems with the master and caliper pistons being rusted - also explains your drop in fluid level.

Does the bike have the stock handlebars? If so & you plan on replacing them, then maybe consider getting a new/replacement Fr Br mc. usa-motorcycles-inc on eebbaayy is one place. The rectangular Kawasaki mc design has a tendency to leak at the cap ---- one of these days I'm going to replace mine. :blush:

Did you take the shift lever and foot peg off?

Make sure you get a manual so you aren't stabbing around in the dark.

kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/599134-manual

Been a while since I've been on here - good miles gone by though! Update: had to clean the carbs last year before storing the bike. Complete pain in the @ss. Stock airbox needs to get replaced with something a little less... oxidized? Those rubber boots were completely miserable. This spring in preparation for a job in South Dakota near Sturgis finally got that pesky brake fluid res to open up and flushed the entire system. Pulled all the slider pins for the brakes and cleaned properly lubed them (last jerk used aluminum anti-seize!). Did a few other things that I don't recall and actually got my license. So I'm in SD for 2 months at this point and one of the maintenance guys says he can "hear" the chain... he explained that its probably loose or worn. I can't hear what he's talking about. But I checked it and it was just out of spec, so I adjusted it, trying to keep things even. Now I'm paranoid that the rear wheel isn't straight despite trying to take some measurements, counting threads and trying the rope around the wheels to show the track thing... All were reasonably close at best... test ride seemed alright... anything to be worried about or no? Also anyone have any tips for rust in the gas tank? I don't wanna clean carbs again.