1982 GPz 750 First Bike

Thank's Eric, I will definitely look into that!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationBy all means replace the old brake lines,nothing in my OEM manual on changing them out but Suzuki says every 2 years.A bit extreme IMO.I use SS braid lines from this guy Just measure the old lines and see what fittings you need..Just had him make up a custom lines for the opposed piston caliper conversion on my 85 GS750.

The bike looks good.
I had new brake lines for my H1 made at this place E.L. Johnston
They are located in the ATL. Reasonable and they made them while I had lunch nearby.

Girlfriend snagged this rad pic outside our APT today.

Okay updates:

Tank began to rust out and clogged my Carbs. So the bike was down for two weeks while I cleaned the tank out and coated it with redkote. Also painted it again. I ended up buying rebuild kits for the carbs and rebuilt them. The bottom spectrum power and responsiveness improved drastically, (The low jets looked like they have never been pulled out or cleaned, the plugs took me a good 30 minutes to pull out! ugh...)

It wasn't until I got on my buddies '02 ZX-9R that I realized just how much motorcycles had improved in 20 years. That freaking bike is scary fast. Only going to about 30% throttle it will pull the front wheel up in first, 2nd, and 3rd... its crazy. Scary even.

Then I got to thinking about my bike and why it was lacking so much power. You would think a 750 should at least have enough power to pull the wheel up right?

So after I rebuilt the carbs we were tuning them when I noticed combustion gasses (both burned and un-burnt) blowing back into the air box past the carbs from cylinder 2. It had apparently been happening for awhile because the gas had discolored the K&N filter I put in, and it only discolored it (it's almost white where the rest of the filter is red from the oil) right around the boot coming from #2.

Due to the carbon and crap all over the intake port of the head and the butterfly valve of the #2 carb I'm under the impression I'm only running on 3 cylinders, which would explain a LOT of my problems. I have yet to check compression or temperature on the exhaust of #2 to see if it is cooler than the others so that's on my list.

If it's getting past the valve when the valve should be closed I'm assuming that means a few things, either:
A.) Valve is out of adjustment and needs to be checked for clearance and re-shimmed
B.) Timing is off (wouldn't that affect more than one valve though?)
C.) Valve got burned due to negligence and needs to be replaced.

Now, This is getting to new territory for me as I have never done my own valve work. I have the Kawasaki Service Manual and what I believe are the correct specs for clearance etc on the valves. Does anyone here have any ideas or tips before I start pulling the valve cover off?

One last thing, I have a vacuum leak I believe as my idle races currently after the bike runs for a little while. Throttle cable and carbs go back to idle just fine, doesn't look to be a mechanical issue. I have 4 new carb boots (from carb to engine) on the way just in case. (I am going to test tonight with some carb cleaner on the boots when I can replicate the racing idle.)


TLDR: Go Back and read it and help me please!!

Addendum: Friends are encouraging me to sell the bike and buy something newer. I however love the old girl and I just want it to be responsive and running correctly.

the bike will be worth double if its running. I would fix it either way.

When you check valve clearances if you find that any of the shims need to be changed consider the following:

After you turn the crank to the correct position as shown in the manual stuff a rag in the cam chain tunnel. This will help avoid the possibility of dropping anything into the abyss which more than 1 person has done.

Before unbolting the cam caps take pictures that show the relationship between the cam sprockets and cylinder head; take one of the ignition timing mark too so you record the crank position. Also, if you put telltale marks on the chain and sprockets showing where they mate up using white-out or something similar when you re-assemble you will know for sure that they are back in the same spot by using the marks and photos.

If you need to change shims do one cam at a time rather than pulling both. This will ensure the cam chain doesn't fall into the abyss and will make it easy to keep the cam chain / cam sprocket relationship intact.

Put a thin coat of motor oil on everything before re-assembling.

After re-assembly but before firing it up take out the spark plugs and gently turn the crankshaft with a wrench to ensure there's no contact between valves and pistons.

Ed

Thanks Ed, I'll take that advice to heart.