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Phoenix Fighter
- kaw-a-holic
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I had not thought about that. Are you suggesting I take a sleeve out of my stock head and have it bored out to 1075 and swap it for the bad sleeve?swest wrote: Are they the same sleeves as your stock ones? You might be able to have one of them bored to fit. The gaskets can be re used with a smear of grease to seal them. I got Allens for mine.
Steve
I'd use the cam.
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- SWest
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Steve
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- kaw-a-holic
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ya that's the other challenge of the 33s. In order to vacuum sync them I will need vacuum ports but the larger boot required to mount the carbs will not have vacuum ports.swest wrote: Yeah, as long as everything else is good, why not? 33's should be fine, that's what I have on mine, they're MIK's but from what I'm reading, they're better. Mine were drilled and tapped for the vacum ports. Crappy job but they work. They used JB weld to seal them. No leaks.
Steve
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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I'd take some 1/4 copper tube, thread it, tap and thread the holes. There ya go ports.
Steve
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- floivanus
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my bikes; 80kz1000(project), 77 gl1000, 74 h2 (project)
Past; 78 kz1000, 83 kz550
Andrew
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floivanus wrote: 3/16 brake like threaded with 5mm x.8 with a nut and a small o-ring would work for vacuum nipples. That's how I made my sync adapters for honda/suzuki
Do you use a set just for synchronizing the carbs and then take them off? Do you have any pics of your set up?
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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I'm not sure I want to drill into my carbs that make a me a bit nervous. If I ever wanted to sell them or trade them for some 29-31s someone else may not want them in there.swest wrote:
They used #6 bolts drilled but I think copper would be better.
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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- SWest
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Steve
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- floivanus
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my bikes; 80kz1000(project), 77 gl1000, 74 h2 (project)
Past; 78 kz1000, 83 kz550
Andrew
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- SWest
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