1979 KZ650D Old School Cafe

Pretty sure I am gonna keep the mags, but if I change my mind, I will let you know.

Thanks

Isn't the thing in your picture the cam chain tensioner. It has a spring and a plunger to hold tension on the cam guide. Not sure but maybe the screw is like a set screw for installation. Push the plunger bac and tighten the screw to hold it until you get the piece installed, then release the screw to allow the plunger to move forward into the cam guide.

As Flyndrive said, it is the cam chain tensioner.

Get a manual to explain the exact function of that screw in the cam chain tensioner.

On some models, that screw is just to hold the tensioner plunger back during installation of the tensioner. On others, there is a screw that locks the position of the tensioner plunger. You need to know what it does in order to know exactly how to deal with it to prevent damage.

Ok, cool. I will work on getting a manual. So seeing as people seem to be a little confused on what my bike is, according to the vin, how can I check exactly what the motor is? You know, to make sure I get the right manual?

Thanks

Yes, you definitely will have to look into what motor you have.

The valve cover indicates that it is a 1980 or later motor. Maybe an E or F model? Based on kawasaki.com, the 1979 and earlier motors had no air suction system on the top. EDIT: oops, looks like the 1979 U.S. had air suction, but not the Canadian.?

The chassis looks to me like a C1 to C3 model from '77 to '79. But if the VIN is 79 D, then maybe someone modified the frame and put on C model body work and rear wheel.

There will be others who can identify the 650's better than I can.

Maybe post the engine number to get what the motor is from.

Someone will have a link to where you can look up the vin number to find out what the chassis is.

Here are the frame and engine numbers for the 650s. Keep in mind this is the data I can find, and I in no way want to indicate it is 100% accurate, but I do feel it is pretty close.

By any chance does your bike's generator cover on the left side of engine have the 3 allen bolts like the ones circled in the picture below? If so, there's a 99.9999% chance it's a 1977 B1 or C1 engine. Ed

I am at work right now, I will check all that out when I get home.

Thanks for all the info.

No bolts in the side cover, I didnt have time to get the engine number, I will do it tonight or tomorrow night.

So I think I should pull the motor out of the frame, pull the head, pull the valves and clean the head. then repaint and reinstall.

Does this seem worth while? Would I be wasting my time?

I have never taken apart a motor this old, but I have disassembled and reassembled the top end of the motor in my 05 R1 and so I am not scared of getting in deep.

If this was one of your bikes, what would you do? I would rather not rebuild the ENTIRE motor, but I will if that is the proper thing.

Let me know your opinions.


Thanks,

-Josh

So here is the vin and engine number

VIN: KZ650D-016041

Engine: KZ650DE016207

According to that chart it is a midnight blue KZ650D2. The colors are blue, dont know about the ducktail issue, but thats how it reads. Anyway, I pulled the motor from the frame, that is one hell of a one man job.



The paint job is not that good, I pulled the starter and you can see the paint was pretty much just rattle can wherever he could get it with out removing much. Everything that is inside of a seal or o-ring is very clean.



I also pulled the valve cover, it is very clean inside. I am gonna pull the head soon. Any tips?



Obviously I pulled the exhaust, there is some rust in the collector and a small hole in one of the tubes. I am gonna patch the tube. I guess i will sand blast the rust or something.





So thats it so far. Hopefully I will get to pull the head tonight.

sweetbro wrote: ... pulled the motor from the frame, that is one hell of a one man job....

Often found easier to remove battery and fluids, and lay bike on its side resting on old tires or other padding. Remove engine mounting bolts. And lift frame up and way from the engine.

Gain more clearance by first removing other engine parts such as cam cover, and maybe also other top end components. May also help to remove the exhaust studs.

Good Fortune!