1980 KZ1000P - Project begins.

If you're not opposed to driving a bit north of Seattle I would recommend Hell Yeah Custom Coatings hellyeahcustomcoating.com/

Bryan works of his garage but he does amazing work for very reasonable prices, he is also a straight up good guy too. I once picked up some stuff from him and was about to leave when he came running back out after counting the money and gave me back $30 because it was easier than he expected.

I spoke to a chrome guys today, he said they, nor anyone else would dip the exaust because it has been used and the carbon will dirty the pool. Have you guys heard of this, makes sense I suppose. Given chroming likey not an option, what would you guys suggest. Looks like a grey rattle can paint job at the moment. Idea is to get back to shiny chrome.

Cheers,

BB wrote: I spoke to a chrome guys today, he said they, nor anyone else would dip the exaust because it has been used and the carbon will dirty the pool. Have you guys heard of this, makes sense I suppose. Given chroming likey not an option, what would you guys suggest. Looks like a grey rattle can paint job at the moment. Idea is to get back to shiny chrome. Cheers,

That's common to the industry.

Might reconsider if header pipes were first boiled out at a radiator shop.

Could ask the chromer to handle the header pipes as a final item when its time to change the chemicals in the tanks.

Good Fortune!

BB, I'm just throwing this out there. I don't know what you paid for this bike but I follow ebay sometimes and I see good running examples of this bike can go for cheap money. Maybe you could find one that needs parts for cheap and you could make one good bike out of two. I admire your courage. As for me , I bought an 02 locally and paid good money but it was pristine. You will be rewarded with a fine motorcycle when you are done. I like the graphics on the faring, looks mean!!!

Hey! I will be following this closely. Nice bike!

Hey BB. Some good sugestions coming your way. The 18 inch wheel on the LTD carcass is actually off the cop bike. I wanted the 16 on to lower the seat highth to make it eaiser to mount for an old cripple. I belive the second 'what is it' picture is the balast resistor. but check the wireing diagram in the service book i gave you.

Also while cleaning up in my shop i found the rotater that takes the place of the points on the stock elect ign. Let me know where to send it.

Keep posting thats what i really wanted to do befor i got sick. Cant wait to see the progress

Keith, good to see you on here man. Having fun so far, its easy to pull her apart. I will keep this updated... nothing this weekend, have to worfk out of town.

This work thing sure gets in the way of working on the bike.... A couple of updates:

1. All parts except actual frame are at the powdercoaters, need to wait until my buddy can lend me his truck, I tried every which way but it would not fit in the car.

2. Got a price list on chrome.... expensive does not even begin... suffice it to say, many part moved from the chrome pile into the powdercoat pile. Exhaust would be about $700 if it was clean - a new one, not dented is $350..

3/ Speaking of chrome, does anyone know of any cleaning/polishing products they would reccommend? It is not in bad shape, just a lot of 'pin prick' type rust spots.

4/ Thinking of putting in a HID kit while I have the wiring all out. Any reccommendations?

5. I have decided against the M-Unit now, I love the concept, but after reading the manual, to run all the items I plan on, you would need to add a lot of direct wires.

I am going to tackle the engine today, I will post photos tonight.

Thanks for the input guys!!

Cheers,

I got stuck into the engine yesterday, for the most part, she looks pretty clean..


Cams are all within spec, and look to be in great shape.




Pistons seem to be fairly clean, not too bad considering 32 years old.




Valves have some deposit, but it does not seem to be excessive.



The on problem I did run into was the cam chain tensioner guides, two of the cogs are really chewed up, they seem to be made of plastic of some kind... does this sound right?

While i have the engine completely apart, what maintainence would you guys suggest?

I'd recommend new pillow pads for all the cam chain gears, and checking the needle bearings for play to see if you need to replace any. I'd also replace the shift shaft seal while everything is apart. People told me that they were able to do it while the engine was still in the frame, but I couldn't for the life of me.
Check piston rings and cylinder walls. Honing them to get some new cross hatching wouldn't be a bad idea. If they are too far outta spec, then some new sleeves might be in order.
But if things look to be within spec, then you're golden.

Oh, and I ditched my hard rubber cam chain tensioner gear for a solid one from Liska. But I kept the central, hard rubber one stock.